Hot Tub Forum
Original => Hot Tub Forum => Topic started by: txwillie on February 23, 2007, 09:06:25 am
-
I posted about this B4, but wanna get some more input. I'll preface by saying this is not my first tub, so I am pretty familiar with water maintenance.
The dealer gave me a list of how to maintain the water. In short, they say since it has ozone and "Sun Purity" (silver nitrate) that I don't have to add dichlor after a soak. Just shock once a week. The shock is dichlor with "other stuff" (I've not had time to really look into it).
Feedback from all is welcomed, but I really would like to hear from any Sundance dealers about Sundance's recommendations.
txwillie
-
Since you cannot measure (easily anyways) for the ozone and silver, the only real thing you can test for is that you are getting the free chlorine level into the 3-5ppm range after every soak. If you are not doing that, then you are just guessing that the tub is sanitary.
-
Is that the dealer's recommendation or the manufacturer's?
-
IMO, many manufacturers have developed a system similar to this, in order to address consumer concerns about chlorine, and to position their tubs as low maintenance. I have no doubt that low/no chlorine systems are appealing in the sales process, but I do doubt how effective they are. From what I've seen on these boards, these systems work as designed for some people, but not for others. I personally would continue with regular chlorine doses, and use the SunPurity system as a supplement, but why not give the dealers recommendations a try? Worst case, if you have problems, you can give it a good dichlor shock, and then go back to regular dichlor doses. When it comes time to replace, you will have to weigh the cost and convenience of the Sundance proprietary cartridge against N2/Frog replacements.
-
The dealer sounds like they are quoting Sundance's recommendations, but I'm not all that clear about that. I've since done some more research and SunPurity is Nature 2 (made by them for Sundance), and there is lots of info on this site and others that N2 reduces the amount of dichlor needed, but does not eliminate it.
txwillie
-
...there is lots of info on this site and others that N2 reduces the amount of dichlor needed, but does not eliminate it.
IMO, that is the proper way to view it. I find that I can get by with slightly less dichlor, and go a few days between doses if need be, but I view it as a supplement, not a primary sanitizer.
-
N2 claims you can maintain CL levels at .5 ppm I find that incrediably low. They also say only to shock the water when it becomes cloudy. While I agree that when the water becomes cloudy, it's time for a shock, but should you consistently wait for it to get that bad before shocking?
Has anyone followed the N2 program to the letter and had good results?
-
I have tried what I think is every conceivable way to use ozone, N2 and chlorine. This includes SunPurity, N2 and Frog cartridges. My experience has been that dichlor after soaking and shocking with either MPS or chlorine as needed works best. I have tried the MPS before soaking and dosing with Chlorine weekly and ended up with cloudy water. I increased to adding chlorine twice a week and using MPS before each soak with the same results. On top of that, I was using a lot more product, so it was an easy decision to go back to my original Vermonter style routine that has worked so well.
All three mineral cartridges work the same for me. I have now unhooked my ozonator because one of the plastic pieces that the tubing connects to is disintigrating and I haven't fixed it yet. I also feel that ozone does a number on everthing vinyl or plastic in between the top of the water and the underside of the cover. I do find that my water does not last as long without ozone. I'm just not sure if it is worth the damage that is causes.
For whoever mentioned N2 for a pool....I tried a pool frog and felt it did absolutely nothing. It now works as a chlorinator only.
-
Tony,
I agree with most of what you said. Although it's been 2 years on my 03 unit and I haven't found anything disinergrating. When did you start to see premature failure on the pillows and such?
I made the post about the N2 and pools. I've heard that large olympic style pools use a silver ion system, but for my needs, a 3" cl slow tab in the filter basket and decent filtration and I have no problems. Perhaps I'm lucky or have decent water, but with both my pool and spa I haven't really had many problems with water chemistry or keeping them clean, and I haven't found the need for avanced test kits, ions, or heavy clorine programs....
go figure.
-
Tony,
I agree with most of what you said. Although it's been 2 years on my 03 unit and I haven't found anything disinergrating. When did you start to see premature failure on the pillows and such?
I made the post about the N2 and pools. I've heard that large olympic style pools use a silver ion system, but for my needs, a 3" cl slow tab in the filter basket and decent filtration and I have no problems. Perhaps I'm lucky or have decent water, but with both my pool and spa I haven't really had many problems with water chemistry or keeping them clean, and I haven't found the need for avanced test kits, ions, or heavy clorine programs....
go figure.
I replaced my pillows at four years which really isn't too bad and I don't know if that qualifies as premature. Chlorine use, I am sure, adds to the issue. I would imagine that bromine tab users have these issues too. I think it is the natural progession of things. My circ pump was just changed out...my cover will need replacing soon as well as my cover lifter. As my spa approaches the magic five year mark, some of the wear items are ...wearing. Ozone just adds to it and I'm not sure if it is worth fixing it or buying a new unit. I always have the option and my Mazzei injector still blows all those tiny bubbles.
I find my pool...and its a small pool...so easy to maintain. Just as you stated...a slow tab and good filtration and your good to go. The Frog system came with the pool. After the first season, I didn't replace the cartridge and only use it for chlorine pucks. I try to keep the trichlor level low and suppliment with liquid chlorine to keep CYA in line. I have never had cloudy water or algae. I have never had to shock the pool. I clean my cartridge filter once per year. I wouldn't have imagined it to be so easy.
-
I've been using a N2 cartridge in my pool for about 4 years now and love it. I find it cuts my chlorine usage in half. I also have one on my sundance.
Now, as far as dealers recommendations. Mine said the same thing. Hit it only once a week with chlorine. I thought that was far too little but gave it a try. (his partner said maybe twice a week). Hitting it once a week, my water would start to go clowdy after about 2 days, then taking a day to go back to clear after hitting it again. Now I just hit it with about a tablespoon after each soak and its always sparkling clear when I raise the cover. (a tablespoon is probably more than I need having the N2, but it does burn off quickly.)
-
I have now unhooked my ozonator because one of the plastic pieces that the tubing connects to is disintigrating and I haven't fixed it yet. I also feel that ozone does a number on everthing vinyl or plastic in between the top of the water and the underside of the cover. I do find that my water does not last as long without ozone. I'm just not sure if it is worth the damage that is causes.
Tony,
It's nice you brought this up. I've had my tub for 4 months and my ozonator has already caused some serious discoloration to all my pillows, filter grill, and diverter knobs, not to mention the underside of my cover. It's kinda too late now but I will definetely be unhooking mine when I replace the pillows and cover. It's just not worth it imo.
-
... I've had my tub for 4 months and my ozonator has already caused some serious discoloration to all my pillows, filter grill, and diverter knobs, not to mention the underside of my cover. It's kinda too late now but I will definetely be unhooking mine when I replace the pillows and cover. It's just not worth it imo.
Unless you have no mixing chamber, you shouldn't be seeing problems this early. Since everything is still under warranty, it may be worth a call to the dealer. Perhaps they can improve the mixing chamber, or add the Sundance part that Vinny mentioned in another thread. If not, it may be worth unplugging the ozonator for awhile to see if it makes any difference on water quality or the deterioration.
FWIW, I had an experience similar to Tony's and have not seen any further deterioration, 2 years after disconnecting the ozone.
-
Unless you have no mixing chamber, you shouldn't be seeing problems this early. Since everything is still under warranty, it may be worth a call to the dealer. Perhaps they can improve the mixing chamber, or add the Sundance part that Vinny mentioned in another thread. If not, it may be worth unplugging the ozonator for awhile to see if it makes any difference on water quality or the deterioration.
FWIW, I had an experience similar to Tony's and have not seen any further deterioration, 2 years after disconnecting the ozone.
I'm not sure if I have a mixing chamber or not but there's some serious discoloration goin' on. It's only been gettin' worse, so maybe I should just unhook it like you said. It can't make that big of a difference and definetely not enough to allow it to eat away my new spa.
-
Reese or whoever else is familar with mixing chambers, this is the Proclear system that Jacuzzi uses. I have a question, is number 6 the mixing chamber and does it come standard with the actual ozonator? When the tech came to install my ozonater I don't recall him adding anything but the actual ozonater. I will be checking to see if I have #6 when the rain stops. I'm concerned that I don't as you can tell from my previous posts that all my plastic parts above the waterline are starting to discolor alot, even my cover is lookin pretty bad. Reese brought the mixing chamber to my attention and now I'm rather curious to see if I have one or not. Do they really help in minimizing the discoloration of the plastics? I think I might just get rid of it altogether. Anyone interested in a 4 month old ozonator? ;)
Thanks,
Chad
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r165/tileman_photos/ProClear.jpg)
1. Two 60 Sq. Ft. Filters drive the ProClear filter system. One filter is dedicated to the 24-hour circulation system pump, turning the water over an average of 25 times each day. The second filter (not shown) works during normal use for maximum purification.
2. 24-hour circulation pump operates on .5 amp of electricity (same as a standard light bulb) slowly and efficiently moving water through the system. This pump is ideally balanced to work effectively with all components in the system.
3. Heater features an ultra low-wattage, energy-conserving stainless steel heating element. The energy-saving system allows water to pass over the heater slowly, increasing the efficient transfer of heat to water.
4. ProClear Ozone Injector* infuses a steady stream of ozone into the spa water, maximizing the purifying effect.
5. ProClear Ozonator* utilizes corona discharge technology, producing three times the concentration of ozone over standard UV-ozone systems. The ProClear process will consistently produce cleaner, clearer water day after day for worry-free use.
6. ProClear Dispersion Chamber System* maximizes the ozone effect through prolonged contact with the water. It increases sanitization and eliminates residual ozone as it is returned to the spa through the ozone jet.
-
Reese or whoever else is familar with mixing chambers, this is the Proclear system that Jacuzzi uses. I have a question, is number 6 the mixing chamber and does it come standard with the actual ozonator? When the tech came to install my ozonater I don't recall him adding anything but the actual ozonater. I will be checking to see if I have #6 when the rain stops. I'm concerned that I don't as you can tell from my previous posts that all my plastic parts above the waterline are starting to discolor alot, even my cover is lookin pretty bad. Reese brought the mixing chamber to my attention and now I'm rather curious to see if I have one or not. Do they really help in minimizing the discoloration of the plastics? I think I might just get rid of it altogether. Anyone interested in a 4 month old ozonator? ;)
Thanks,
Chad
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r165/tileman_photos/ProClear.jpg)
1. Two 60 Sq. Ft. Filters drive the ProClear filter system. One filter is dedicated to the 24-hour circulation system pump, turning the water over an average of 25 times each day. The second filter (not shown) works during normal use for maximum purification.
2. 24-hour circulation pump operates on .5 amp of electricity (same as a standard light bulb) slowly and efficiently moving water through the system. This pump is ideally balanced to work effectively with all components in the system.
3. Heater features an ultra low-wattage, energy-conserving stainless steel heating element. The energy-saving system allows water to pass over the heater slowly, increasing the efficient transfer of heat to water.
4. ProClear Ozone Injector* infuses a steady stream of ozone into the spa water, maximizing the purifying effect.
5. ProClear Ozonator* utilizes corona discharge technology, producing three times the concentration of ozone over standard UV-ozone systems. The ProClear process will consistently produce cleaner, clearer water day after day for worry-free use.
6. ProClear Dispersion Chamber System* maximizes the ozone effect through prolonged contact with the water. It increases sanitization and eliminates residual ozone as it is returned to the spa through the ozone jet.
Part number six is your mixing chamber. It should be visible from the equipment compartment, right side...unless they have changed things in four years.
-
Yes, that is the "mixing chamber". That part, combined with the length of tubing between the injector and the fitting that returns the water to the tub are intended to increase the contact time to get the ozone into the water, rather than just off-gassing without doing anything other than damaging your cover and headrests. Many systems just rely on a length of tubing, with no extra canister to try to increase absorption, so at least Jacuzzi is trying something to address the issue. I have no idea if it is effective or not, and I don't know if Jacuzzi tubs come with the mixing chamber pre-installed.
There can be a lot of use left between initial discoloration and noticable damage/need for replacement, and I'm sure some colors are more susceptible than others. Be aware that chlorine off-gassing can also cause discoloration, especially if the cover isn't left open after application. Bromine tubs, with the bromine/chlorine mixture constantly dissolving/off-gassing can get similar damage. Since you aren't satisfied, it is worth a visit with the dealer and/or a Jacuzzi factory rep to document your concerns.
-
Thanks guys. :)
Reese,
I'm pretty sure that I'm giving the chlorine enough time to off gas. After my post soak doses, I always wait atleast 10 minutes before shuttin' her down. In the 4 months I've I had my tub, I've only superchloronated 4 times and I leave the cover fully open for a minimum of an hour. Is this enough or should I be waiting even longer?
-
... After my post soak doses, I always wait atleast 10 minutes before shuttin' her down. In the 4 months I've I had my tub, I've only superchloronated 4 times and I leave the cover fully open for a minimum of an hour. Is this enough or should I be waiting even longer?
IMO, that's plenty. I figure that as long as you wait until the initial chlorine cloud is gone, you're good. I notice a big dropoff in off-gassing after 5 min on a regular dose, and 15 on a shock. I give it more time (15/30) when the weather is nice, but cover it up sooner in the winter to save heat.