Hot Tub Forum
Original => Hot Tub Forum => Topic started by: Gomboman on January 28, 2007, 08:54:10 pm
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Do you know how much electricity (kWh) your spa consumes in the winter on a monthly basis? I know it depends on quite a few factors such as temperature settings, outside temperature, usage, electrical equipment, size, insulation etc.
We've had quite a few discussions about how much we pay for electricity but it's very difficult to segregate our spa usage costs unless you connect a meter to the spa. My electric company uses a sliding scale and charges penalties if you go over the alloted baseline. By the way, they only allow 187 kWh's in the winter.
I just got my last electric bill and it was $168 for 895 kWh's. If my spa only used 200 kWh's, my charges would be approximately $65 due to the penalties--calculated on the back end of the rates. That equates to over $.30 per kWh for the spa. I'm thinking 200 kWh's is probably on the low side since we use it almost every night.
Anyway, has anyone actually measured their spa electrical consumption with a meter or with some other method? I'm curious to know how many kWh's were consumed for one month. Dealers, is there an average consumption figure thrown out there for your brand? Perhaps you have data on customer spas measured in the field?
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I think the majority of us use an assumption method in calculating the amount of electricity our spas use.
I've calculated on paper what mine uses based on amperage readings.
My circ pump uses about 0.75 amps x 240 volts x 24 hours x 30 days = 118.8 KWH alone.
My 4 KW heater runs maybe 2 hours (probably 20 minutes a time, 6 times a day) total a day: 8 x 30 days = 240 KW.
I'm up to 348 KWH without using the jets yet.
I have always assumed about 500 to 600 KWH for the tub ... of course as you stated without metering it there's no way to tell.
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If Cola checks in, he can tell you in detail exactly how much electric the Epic uses. He figured it out for me when I was having my electric crisis!
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If I had to guess based upon my electric bills since owning my tub, I'd say no more than 200 kwhs.
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You are right in that KWH's used is a more meaninigful number for discussion than what your electric bill dollar total is.
Rates vary between regions by a significant amount. We pay about $.08/KWH, and others I've heard pay as much as $0.20- that's over double- so throwing out just dollars is relatively meaningless. KWH consumption is more useful.
I quit worry about that stuff a while back. Just from experience, I know that our electric bill goes up in the winter- mainly from the spa- but also a bit for the extra time the furnace fan runs. Bills are lower in the spring and fall, and spike back up a bit in summer when the A/C is running. I'm to lazy to try and figure out how much the spa contributes to the bill.
We don't have tiered rates or penalties for excessive use. We do have a saver switch that allows the utility to cycle the A/C on and off at certain intervals when they are at a peak demand and in danger of overloading. We get a $10 per month credit from May to September for allowing this. Doesn't affect the spa, though- it's only hooked up to the A/C.
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I have to agree with Vinny. By looking at past bills showing KWH used before and after the spa arrived it looks to be about a 5oo KWH difference for the same months. This is certainly nothing scientific but I have checked for several months and this is what I found. Usage on tub is at least once per day and sometimes several times. This is for the winter months here in NY.
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OK, I would like to estimate my electrical consumption for a 2005 HotSring Envoy since I don't have access to a meter. I just need some help estimating the loads for my particular equipment. Here are the items I need to calculate:
1. Circ pump = x watts
2. FWIII Ozone = x watts
3. Jet Pump 1 (Wavemaster 8000) = x watts
4. Jet Pump 2 (Wavemaster 8200) = x watts
5. Exterior light = x watts
6. Heater wattage (No-fault 4000) = 4,000 watts
7. Typical heater cycle time for Southern California installation (102° winter) = x hours/day
If anyone can help with these figures I would appreciate it. Once I have the data I can calculate my total costs since my usage times are very consistent.
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Circ pump - 85 watts. 75 watts for models four years or older.
Ozone - about zero in this calculation. They run 120V, 60mA - it is the wee hours of the morning and I can't do the math, but it will not be a sifnificant factor.
Jet pumps - take the HP and multiply by 745. Use actual HP, not breakdown torque or other phony numbers. The data plate on the motor will help. Amps multiplied times voltage is your wattage. Use 110 or 220 for voltage, accordingly. Some folks use 100 or 200 for ease and it's close enough.
Light in your spa is LED - insignigicant power consumption.
Heater you have. Some HS have 6000 watt heaters.
Typical heater cycle can be guestimated like this: shut off the heat - or just turn it way down - and see how much temp your spa loses overnight or for a 24 hour period. Figure that your spa heats at about 8 to 10 degrees per hour. So if your tub loses two degrees ovenight, or four in a 24 hour period, figure the heater will run less than a half hour per day. This is rough, but should get you close.
8-)
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Most manufacturers post energy consumption, especially since the new rules of energy compliance CA has been implimented. A spa can cost as little as $25 a month for every day use. For instance if a spa has a circulation pump that can heat the spa 2 degrees per hour thereby eliminating the need for the heater to kick on just to maintain heat. Also some spas use 60 amps others use 30 amps thereby making one spa manufacturer 50% more efficient right out of the box. Definitely one of those items you want to inquire about before purchasing a spa.
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Most manufacturers post energy consumption, especially since the new rules of energy compliance CA has been implimented. A spa can cost as little as $25 a month for every day use. For instance if a spa has a circulation pump that can heat the spa 2 degrees per hour thereby eliminating the need for the heater to kick on just to maintain heat. Also some spas use 60 amps others use 30 amps thereby making one spa manufacturer 50% more efficient right out of the box. Definitely one of those items you want to inquire about before purchasing a spa.
Please explain what you are talking about with the 60amp versus 30 being more efficient. I'm confused on this one. :-?
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Also some spas use 60 amps others use 30 amps thereby making one spa manufacturer 50% more efficient right out of the box.
Sorry, but it's not that simple.
Electrical costs equate to power consumption- It's a function of power consumed over a period of time.
A 6KW heater will draw more power than a 3KW heater, but that doesn't mean the smaller heater is more efficient. It may have to run twice as long as the bigger heater to heat the water the same amount, and the net cost would be about the same.
The pumps and heater are what constitute most of the power consumption on a spa.
A smaller pump may draw less power while it's running, but if it has to run twice as long as a larger pump to filter the water effectively again, there is no savings.
Design has more to do with efficiency than simply how big your circuit has to be.
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Also some spas use 60 amps others use 30 amps thereby making one spa manufacturer 50% more efficient right out of the box. Definitely one of those items you want to inquire about before purchasing a spa.
This statement is not even close to reality. To associate energy efficiency with amperage characteristics alone is just plain uneducated.
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Brewman I agree with you! It's not that simple and if a smaller heater is running longer than it's not more efficient. So it goes to the design. If the spa is designed so the low amp circulation pump also heats the spa while circulating then the heater will not need to kick on except when the spa is being used, thus saving energy (based upon energy loss on a full-foam spa). And as you said this too is simplification because the efficiency of design and quality of parts greatly effect the energy consumption.
Amperage is how to measure the electricity used. If it only takes 30 amps to drive x.xxhp pumps then 60 amps to drive x.xxhp that equates to a 50% savings. ANALOGY if a car get 20 miles to the gallon it is more efficient than a car that gets 10 miles to the gallon, (regardless of the size of the gas tank and how much it costs to fill it) you will be saving money.
I find it interesting that I raised quite a few hairs but no one disputes the energy consumption guides which are B/W and a very non-opinionated way to inform consumers of an energy efficient spa with correct expectations of costs.
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Most manufacturers post energy consumption, especially since the new rules of energy compliance CA has been implimented. A spa can cost as little as $25 a month for every day use. For instance if a spa has a circulation pump that can heat the spa 2 degrees per hour thereby eliminating the need for the heater to kick on just to maintain heat. Also some spas use 60 amps others use 30 amps thereby making one spa manufacturer 50% more efficient right out of the box. Definitely one of those items you want to inquire about before purchasing a spa.
Charstrom, you are certainly jumping into the board with some interesting perspectives. :-? A circ pump heating two degrees an hour without the heater?? Even large jet pumps don't heat that much. As far as the 60 amp vs 30 -- that is usually related to the number of pumps and the size of the heater -- not an indicator of efficiency, just how much the tub is trying to do. Small, single pump spas with 1500 watt heaters have lower amp requirements, large multi-pump tubs with 5.5kW heat need more amps. Using your MPG analogy, it is like comparing the fuel use of a MiniCooper to a BMW 7 series. As far as the energy guides, those again are more related to size, and what they are trying to do, than efficiency. A large freezer shows a higher energy draw than a small fridge. The only useful comparisons that may indicate efficiency are when you are comparing similar sized/equipped appliances.
Any hairs you raised were just a reaction to these kind of IMO, inaccuracies.;) One nice thing about this board is the range of perspectives, and the willingness of members to call BS when it is detected. Welcome to the board! :)
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Amperage is how to measure the electricity used. If it only takes 30 amps to drive x.xxhp pumps then 60 amps to drive x.xxhp that equates to a 50% savings. ANALOGY if a car get 20 miles to the gallon it is more efficient than a car that gets 10 miles to the gallon, (regardless of the size of the gas tank and how much it costs to fill it) you will be saving money.
I find it interesting that I raised quite a few hairs but no one disputes the energy consumption guides which are B/W and a very non-opinionated way to inform consumers of an energy efficient spa with correct expectations of costs.
I still don't think you're aperage reasoning is all that on. Yeh, IF spa A drew 30 amps, and spa B drew 60 AND they both ran for the same amount of time, spa A would be 50% more efficient. But I'm not sure how to equate that to how spas work.
Not sure your comparison is really valid.
I didn't comment on the energy consumption part of your post because I'm not familiar with them.
Frankly it's not a concern to me. Annecdotal information on this board indicates to me that the quality of the insulation has way more to do with power consumption than trying to figure it out by the way you're describing it.
A cheap crappy underinsulated spa that leaks heat out will cost more to operate than a quaility built unit that has good insulation.
Even if the crappy spa runs at 30 amps, it'll run more often and cost more in power.
I've seen plenty of complaint posts here over the years where some unknown brand spa that saved the owners thousands of dollars is costing that much back in electric bills.
Efficiency goes way beyond rated power consumption.
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Most manufacturers post energy consumption, especially since the new rules of energy compliance CA has been implimented. A spa can cost as little as $25 a month for every day use. For instance if a spa has a circulation pump that can heat the spa 2 degrees per hour thereby eliminating the need for the heater to kick on just to maintain heat. Also some spas use 60 amps others use 30 amps thereby making one spa manufacturer 50% more efficient right out of the box. Definitely one of those items you want to inquire about before purchasing a spa.
The energy consumption posted by manufacturers is self tested. It also does not relate to normal usage. Last I checked most manufacturers had not posted with state of CA.
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Well, since a lot of tubs can be configured to run on 30 or 50 amps, some even on 60, there needs to be a little more undertanding of what changes when this selection is made.
On many tubs, they install the very same heater, pumps and blower. If you want to run the tub on 30 amps, the control system is set so that the heater cannot run at the same time as the pumps. 50 amps? OK, the system can now allow one pump with heat, but drops out the heat when both pumps kick in. 60 amps - all pumps and heat, but usually not heat with blower.
But in the 30 amp version the heat has to come on to catch up after the jets are shut off, so the energy consumption will the same, if not greater. Since the tub could have heated while the folks were enjoying the jets, but now it must run the low-speed pump to heat back up after the fact, it will cost you more.
HotSpring went to larger pumps several years ago on their 'HP' models. To allow the tubs to be run with all systems on 50 amp service, they went to a 4000 watt heater in place of a 6000 watt. HS circ pump runs all the time, so the small amount of extra time it takes to get up to temp is not going to cost you a dime. And it has proven to work just fine having the 4KW heaters. And as stated above, it can heat whenever it needs to, even if the jets are running.
Efficiency is the wrong word to use here. That word means, "what output does the device produce compared to what input is needed." And a motor/pump combination which moves more water while consuming less power is more efficient. A tub that runs the heater only after the jets are turned off is not.
HTH - lots more where that came from... ;)
8-)
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Also, as far as I am aware of, the Laing pumps that Hotsrping uses are relatively the same as the ones that Sundance uses in their 780 series. The Laing pumps are water cooled (need the water going through them to cool them off), so much of the waste heat from the circulaion pump is transferred into the water. I have heard numbers as high as 87%, but have seen no real documentation as to that fact.
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Hey folks - Newbie here. Please be gentle! ;)
Just thought I might add to this topic. My wife and I got our first hot tub about a month ago. We went with a Nordic CrownXL because we both wanted a round tub with completely barrier-free seating and something large and deep without having to take out a second mortgage on the house. The CrownXL fit the bill perfectly and the dealer is just 15 minutes away. It seems solidly constructed (I know it's a value tub but it's still pretty well built) and it's a GREAT party tub! It's wired for 230V/50amps so I can run the pump and heater at the same time. It also runs a 4 hour cleaning cycle (low speed on pump) twice a day. No circ. pump. We fired it up on Christmas Eve and got our first soak in on Christmas night. After a month, we really like the tub and just hope it continues to give us years of trouble-free enjoyment.
From the beginning, Ive been worried about how much a tub would affect our electrical bill since we live in New England (CT) but figured "How bad could it be?" The dealer didn't give me much to work with because he said a lot depends on location of the tub and how much it's used. He guessed it would cost us an extra $40-60/month in the winter and probably $20-40/month in the summer.
Well, we just got our electric bill and figured that we used, on average, 14 kWh MORE per day for a total of 420 kWh during 30 days starting on Dec. 24th At my current rate of $.183/kWh, our bill went up about $76 from this same time last year. Some of the $ increase is a result of slightly higher electric rates. So, maybe it's more like $70 more than last January.
The key here, like others have posted, is the kWh used by the tub, not the actual dollar amount since electric rates vary so much from region to region. I'm not sure if 14 kWh/day is a lot for a tub. Seems a little high to me but I'll watch it again next month and see if it stays about the same.
(EDIT: I forgot that since we had to fill the tub on Christmas Eve with water from the hose at about 45 degrees, the heater and pump (low speed) must have been running for at least 12 hours continuously to get the water up to 100 degrees. That must have had a significant effect on the "average" daily electrical usage. The next 30 days should be more representative of how much the tub uses during normal operation.)
I have a couple of questions though....First, we like to soak at around 102 degrees. I've been turning that down to 99 when we get out and then turn it back up to 102 about 1/2 hour before we get in. Is this saving me anything or actually costing me more?
And, 2nd, has anybody seen or had a custom tub cover made that will completely go over the entire tub including the existing cover and sides? I haven't found anything decent on the web so I'm thinking about going over to the local upholstery shop and have a custom, light-weight "all over" cover made with some reflective, insulating type material on the inside and a durable vinyl on the outside. I think this would add significantly to the insulation of the tub, especially on those really cold, windy days here in CT. Plus it would help to protect the tub cabinet and existing cover from the sun all year.
Sorry for the long post!
Sudzz (Don't worry - none in the tub, just the beer mug!)
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I love the Nordic Crown XL, my very favorite value tub. I hope you went with the cedar siding?
As far as saving or costing you more by turning the heat down, it's a wash, Leave it set and ready to go.
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Sudzz,
Welcome to the forum. If you're lookin' for a custom tub cover, this man is the one to speak with. :)
http://www.whatsthebest-hottub.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?action=viewprofile;username=lets
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Circ pump - 85 watts. 75 watts for models four years or older.
Ozone - about zero in this calculation. They run 120V, 60mA - it is the wee hours of the morning and I can't do the math, but it will not be a sifnificant factor.
Jet pumps - take the HP and multiply by 745. Use actual HP, not breakdown torque or other phony numbers. The data plate on the motor will help. Amps multiplied times voltage is your wattage. Use 110 or 220 for voltage, accordingly. Some folks use 100 or 200 for ease and it's close enough.
Light in your spa is LED - insignigicant power consumption.
Heater you have. Some HS have 6000 watt heaters.
Typical heater cycle can be guestimated like this: shut off the heat - or just turn it way down - and see how much temp your spa loses overnight or for a 24 hour period. Figure that your spa heats at about 8 to 10 degrees per hour. So if your tub loses two degrees overnight, or four in a 24 hour period, figure the heater will run less than a half hour per day. This is rough, but should get you close.
8-)
Thanks for the information Chas. It took exactly one hour to raise my water temperature from 99° to 102°. The outside temperature was 50°. I wonder if my 4,000 watt heater is working correctly? It's always been on the slow side.
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Hey folks - Newbie here. Please be gentle! ;)
(EDIT: I forgot that since we had to fill the tub on Christmas Eve with water from the hose at about 45 degrees, the heater and pump (low speed) must have been running for at least 12 hours continuously to get the water up to 100 degrees. That must have had a significant effect on the "average" daily electrical usage. The next 30 days should be more representative of how much the tub uses during normal operation.)
I have a couple of questions though....First, we like to soak at around 102 degrees. I've been turning that down to 99 when we get out and then turn it back up to 102 about 1/2 hour before we get in. Is this saving me anything or actually costing me more?
And, 2nd, has anybody seen or had a custom tub cover made that will completely go over the entire tub including the existing cover and sides? I haven't found anything decent on the web so I'm thinking about going over to the local upholstery shop and have a custom, light-weight "all over" cover made with some reflective, insulating type material on the inside and a durable vinyl on the outside. I think this would add significantly to the insulation of the tub, especially on those really cold, windy days here in CT. Plus it would help to protect the tub cabinet and existing cover from the sun all year.
I wouldn't start to gauge your average KWH usage till you've had the spa several months. Like you said, there is the initial heating of the water, and you might use the spa more often in the beginning due to it being new and all. After a month or two a more normal usage pattern might set in.
Weather or not reducing the water temperature like you're doing actually saves you money depends on how often you're doing it. In general, it costs less to keep water at 99 than 102. I suspect that it probably does save you some money, but it's not likely to be very much.
Don't know if such a cover exists like you want. Maybe someone else can chime in on that. If you do find someone who'll make you one, let us know. I'd be curious to see what the cost would be. I have a feeling it'd be pretty spendy.
Doc?
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Thanks for the information Chas. It took exactly one hour to raise my water temperature from 99° to 102°. The outside temperature was 50°. I wonder if my 4,000 watt heater is working correctly? It's always been on the slow side.
Gombo, that does sound a bit slow. When I turned my tub down the other day to 100, it only took 30 minutes to heat back up to 103. Ambient temp was around 37 and the winds were calm.
I'm doing an experiment this weekend to figure out how many kwhs my tub uses a day similar to the one Chas reccommended.
I will be writing down the # on my meter at 5:00 pm today and then again at 5:00 pm tommarrow. Then Saturday, I will be doing the same thing but with the tub completely shut down with no power. The temps are suppose to be pretty much the same the next couple of days, so my results should be pretty accurate. It will be no warmer than 25, so this will probably be close to the maximum amount of kwhs per day my tub uses throughout the year. I'll post the results Sunday. :)
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Amperage is how to measure the electricity used.
I won't even debate the rest of your post since it is based upon this statement which is completely wrong.
Amperage is the measurement of electrical flow through a conductor whereas wattage is, in your words, "...how to measure the electricity used." Please get the fundamentals correct before offering advice.
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I like the idea about the cover for the cabinet of the spa. Especially in the colder months of the year when your spa may not get as much use. It would be very interesting to see what kind of difference this made to your electric bill. If the cabinet cover could be made out of the same type of foam and thickness as the spa cover I'm willing to bet it would make a significant difference in heating costs. I bet you could even use a roll of attic insulation enclosed in vinyl, etc and then wrapped around the spa.
Other things that come to mind to save on heating costs would be to enclose your spa in a gazebo. Or at least have some type of privacy screens around it to shield it from the wind.
I know a cover around the cabinet of the tub would probably look kind of dumb but in the middle of winter who really cares about asthetics. You could even construct the cover to wrap around the spa and fasten with velcro for easy removal.
Any other thoughts on this?
Just a note I live in Indianapolis and will be having a 2006 Vanguard installed this spring. I am expecting to have my electric bill go up $20-$30 a month but I am going to be ticked if it goes up $70+ like Sudz.
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...Any other thoughts on this?
Some of these ideas like a wind break or a gazebo would certainly help prevent heat loss due to air penetration. However, unless you have a poorly insulated spa, or a bad cover...I'm guessing there would quickly be a point of diminishing returns. IMO you have to factor in aesthetics and inconvenience in the cost/benefit analysis. I can't imagine wrapping my spa in an extra cover and having to deal with that before and after use.
Sudzz, there have been several threads about the value of turning the temp down between uses. I think the consensus is that there may be slight savings, more if your use of the spa is infrequent, but those savings have to be considered against the inconvenience of having to plan ahead to use the spa.
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Just a note I live in Indianapolis and will be having a 2006 Vanguard installed this spring. I am expecting to have my electric bill go up $20-$30 a month but I am going to be ticked if it goes up $70+ like Sudz.
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Don't worry about the cost but take a look at the KWH. This is what really matters as has been said above many times. There is a big difference in utility rates. Somewhere
on the forum is a post about what everyone is paying. I believe it went from a low of about.08 KWH to .22 per KWH. Quite a large gap. To be fair it has to be KWH times usage factor. Happy tubbing. When you are soaking electric rates will be the furthest thing from your mind. :)
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I'm doing an experiment this weekend to figure out how many kwhs my tub uses a day similar to the one Chas reccommended.
I will be writing down the # on my meter at 5:00 pm today and then again at 5:00 pm tommarrow. Then Saturday, I will be doing the same thing but with the tub completely shut down with no power. The temps are suppose to be pretty much the same the next couple of days, so my results should be pretty accurate. It will be no warmer than 25, so this will probably be close to the maximum amount of kwhs per day my tub uses throughout the year. I'll post the results Sunday. :)
I decided to start my experiment early. This morning at 6:30, I recorded my meters reading. It's been 11 hours and I've only used 9 kwhs. Granted I was at work for 8 of those hours but still! I'm very eager to see my final results in case you can't tell. :D
Btw, I will be soaking for 15 minutes tonight as that's my usual daily soaking time and will doing everything else the same both days. I will not be doing laundry, running the dishwasher, or vacuuming. Just lights, computer, TV's, furnace(gas), 1 microwave, 1 refrigerater, coffee maker, phone charger, 1 garage door opener, radio, alarm clock, and a toaster.
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Thanks for the information Chas. It took exactly one hour to raise my water temperature from 99° to 102°. The outside temperature was 50°. I wonder if my 4,000 watt heater is working correctly? It's always been on the slow side.
Gombo, I average 4 degrees an hour in my Envoy with a new fill. I find it odd that it takes so long in our mild climate when others in freezing temps can average 7+.
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Gombo, I average 4 degrees an hour in my Envoy with a new fill. I find it odd that it takes so long in our mild climate when others in freezing temps can average 7+.
Brooke,
I average 6-7.
Maybe since my tub is only 336 gallons and it's fenced in on two sides, it heats a little faster. :-/
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I decided to start my experiment early. This morning at 6:30, I recorded my meters reading. It's been 11 hours and I've only used 9 kwhs. Granted I was at work for 8 of those hours but still! I'm very eager to see my final results in case you can't tell. :D
Btw, I will be soaking for 15 minutes tonight as that's my usual daily soaking time and will doing everything else the same both days. I will not be doing laundry, running the dishwasher, or vacuuming. Just lights, computer, TV's, furnace(gas), 1 microwave, 1 refrigerater, coffee maker, phone charger, 1 garage door opener, radio, alarm clock, and a toaster.
Well, half my experiment is completed. In 24 hours with my tub on, set at 103, set to run 1 30 minute programmable cycle every 6 hours, and one 15 minute soak along with using all the things listed above in my previous post, I consumed 20 kwhs.
I turrned the tub off at 6:00 am today. It was at 103 when I shut her down. It's currently 18 degrees outside and the high is 22 with windchills down in the single digits. I'm a little hesitant to keep it shut down for 24 hours with those temps. I might just go 12 and double the results especially since yesterday's results were so steady(I used exactly 10 kwhs every 12 hours)
I'll keep you updated.....gotta go, I'm late for work!
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Well, I turned my tub back on after 8 hours. I was a little worried b/c the current windchill is 9. My tub went from 103 to 99 during that time. I used 3 kwhs in the 8 hours that the tub was w/o power. That would be 9 in a 24 hour period compared to 20 when the tub was on. So 11 kwhs a day is what it takes to maintain my tub at 103 with 2 hrs of programmed cycles and a 15 minute soak, with ambient temps between 18-24 and a windchill factor of 8-10. That will probably be the most kwhs it will use during a winter day here in St. Louis.
So 11 x 30(days) = 330 kwhs per month
My rate is 7 cents per kwhs
330 x $.07 = $23.10
That's right at the average my bill has increased a month. :)
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If I had to guess based upon my electric bills since owning my tub, I'd say no more than 200 kwhs.
I wasn't even close. :-[
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Well, I turned my tub back on after 8 hours. I was a little worried b/c the current windchill is 9. My tub went from 103 to 99 during that time. I used 3 kwhs in the 8 hours that the tub was w/o power. That would be 9 in a 24 hour period compared to 20 when the tub was on. So 11 kwhs a day is what it takes to maintain my tub at 103 with 2 hrs of programmed cycles and a 15 minute soak, with ambient temps between 18-24 and a windchill factor of 8-10. That will probably be the most kwhs it will use during a winter day here in St. Louis.
So 11 x 30(days) = 330 kwhs per month
My rate is 7 cents per kwhs
330 x $.07 = $23.10
That's right at the average my bill has increased a month. :)
Tileman, are you kidding me? You pay $.07 per kWh? I pay $.30 per kWh for the spa. Thanks for the update. It sounds like Jacuzzi builds a very efficient spa. Take care.
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Tileman, are you kidding me? You pay $.07 per kWh? I pay $.30 per kWh for the spa. Thanks for the update. It sounds like Jacuzzi builds a very efficient spa. Take care.
Gomboman,
No joke. It's really that cheap.
Re:I pay $.30 per kWh for the spa.
Wow, I couldn't imagine paying that much.
You live in Cali, right? I guess it pays to live in Missouri for some things. :D Although with a current temp of 8 degrees and windchills down to 2, I wouldn't mind paying the extra money for a little Cali weather right now.
Your Welcome for the update,
Tileman, WHY NOT,.....you can call me Chad :D 8-)
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You'll always be Tileman to me. ;D
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You'll always be Tileman to me. ;D
:)