Hot Tub Forum
Original => Hot Tub Forum => Topic started by: Brookenstein on January 10, 2007, 03:40:43 pm
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Ok, so after getting a taylor test kit, I feel like I've been living a lie the last year +.
I always thought I had perfect water, therefor my maintenance was a breeze.
Well, so is not the case. My water is almost a week old. We haven't used the tub yet. My PH is >8 and my ALK is 150. I added a cap of PH/ALK down. How long do I wait to retest and adjust again?
Also, when it comes to FC/CC/TC when is it that you need to shock?
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maybe 20 mins to test again
one suggestion would be to test your tap water if it has a low ph/Alk you can always just add water to lower your levels instead of always adding chemicals
once you add R-03 after combining R01& R02 if the colour changes then you most definitely need to shock if not then stay on your regular schedule
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I added a cap of PH/ALK down. How long do I wait to retest and adjust again?
I'd wait atleast a couple of hours. Preferably tommorrow. You'd hate to add to much. I'd just be patient and see what it is in the morning.
Btw, ph/alk - is the only chemical that you do not run the pumps right after adding b/c it's an acid.
Also, when it comes to FC/CC/TC when is it that you need to shock?
Taylor reccomendes when CC is .5 or greater. That's what I do.
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ALK went down 25, but PH is the same at >8. Is there a way to treat just PH?
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ALK went down 25, but PH is the same at >8. Is there a way to treat just PH?
Not that I know of.
Both Dry Acid and Muriatic Acid will lower both. Each one lowers alk more than ph. So your results are typical.
Try getting your alk down in range first, preferably at or below 100 and then see where your ph goes. Add soda ash if the ph drops out of range. You could also use baking soda but that will raise your alk a little too.
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Its very simple use your tub and the level will drop
dont over analyse your water now that your using the Taylor kit
if your water was not having problems while you while relying on the strips then just relax. Way to0 many people stress about their readings to actually enjoy their tub.
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That's why I'm a Test Strips guy.
And briefs, in case anyone wanted to know.
8-)
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And briefs, in case anyone wanted to know. 8-)
Ok Chas, I have had enough of your statements made as if they were "facts". I'm gonna need some proof for this one!!
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Brooke, that's too bad. I know you were always good at not micro managing your water. It didn't appear that you had any major problems with your old method even if your water wasn't really perfect. Oh well. :)
My PH always stays high for the first couple of weeks after a water change and then it comes down on it's own. I've learned to live with a high PH after a re-fill.
Take Care
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I'm with Chas...at first I thought I needed that Taylor kit too, but my dealer said I should be fine with strips. I think if I had continued to have problems with my water, I might have gone to the Taylor kit. But since everything is good, I'll stick with the strips...
I guess the question is Just how chemically perfect does your tub need to be? If the test strips allow you to manage your water so that your tub is clean and your equipment is safe from extremes that could damage it...just how accurate do your parameters have to be?
I can see maybe using the Taylor kit after a fill to get initial levels perfect, then using strips to maintain... How much is a Taylor kit anyway?
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I'm going to agree with most people here that micro-managing water and constant testing and adding this and that to the water can get out of control. It reminds me of some of the oil geeks at an auto lubrication forum I go to now and then. Man, you would think dumping a quart of oil in your car would be a no brainer but my God, you can't believe what some of these guys go through for optimum engine lubrication. It can be the same thing here with hot tub water.
I've been a tub owner for 20 years (In fact, my next tub, a HS Jetsetter will be delivered at the end of the month). At first I would check water every day with little jars of red stuff, clear stuff, yellow stuff. Heck, you would think I was making test tube babies! Then I would do the same thing with strips. I would adjust to try to get my water perfect by adding this and that and the other thing and would usually screw things up worse than when I started.
Then I got smart (and experienced). I could tell by water smell and clarity if I needed any chemicals. I found that a little floater filled with chlorine pucks and adjusted as to flow was all I needed. Sometimes, I could "feel" the water being too hard or soft around my body and a PH adjustment would be made but that was rare.
My case is somewhat unusual I guess as I live alone and over the last ten years I can count on one hand the number of people that have been in the tub besides me. More frequent use and maybe my system would not work. Nonetheless, I change water quarterly and clean filter monthly. Heavier use and you should change water even more frequently. That is the secret. Get your water within reasonable range so you are comfortable and so your tub's equipment is protected and don't worry about it further - then enjoy!!
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The best rule of thumb I use is not testing my water but once a week...and I highly recommend it.
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Some of us are just a little more particular then others. I have a taylor k-2005 and love the felling that I'm soaking in both perfect water for me and my tub. I'm FAR from a micro manager. In my 10+ weeks I've only added + or - chems twice to maintain this. I'm not saying it's for everyone but don't assume just b/c someone uses one that they micro manage.
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The best rule of thumb I use is not testing my water but once a week...and I highly recommend it.
I agree. I test once per week.
As far as strips go...I always had a hard time identifying levels. What I thought was a pH of 7.4 was actually about 6.8. TA was always off also. With the Taylor kit, I always know.
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Ok Chas, I have had enough of your statements made as if they were "facts". I'm gonna need some proof for this one!!
A note from Chas' wife:
Yes, I will vouch for the fact that Chas wears 'tight whiteys.'
I have discouraged him from posting a photo, although he seems to be more than willing to do so.
Mrs. Chas
;)
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A note from Chas' wife:
I have discouraged him from posting a photo,
Mrs. Chas
;)
Thanks, and please keep up that effort. I won't ask how the photo's in question got into existence in the first place.
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A note from Chas' wife:
Yes, I will vouch for the fact that Chas wears 'tight whiteys.'
I have discouraged him from posting a photo, although he seems to be more than willing to do so.
Mrs. Chas
;)
spoilsport
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My water is almost a week old. We haven't used the tub yet. My PH is >8 and my ALK is 150. I added a cap of PH/ALK down. How long do I wait to retest and adjust again?
Since when is balancing water that is 8+pH "micro-managing"? :-? Brooke, since you are used to seeing different results on your strips, you may want to confirm your Taylor results with test strips and/or testing at a dealer -- but assuming your pH is high, it really should be dealt with. You don't have to wait until everything is balanced to start using the tub, but running at high pH decreases chlorine effectiveness and runs the risk of scale formation if there is any hardness present!
Sometime, water tests "perfect" out of the tap... but after it settles in the tub, then gets aerated, it's true make-up shows up on tests. My water comes out of the tap at 7.5 pH/100 TA, but by the next day tests off-the-scale high for both. It requires a lot of acid to bring down the pH (in my case over 20 oz.). Using unbuffered MPS to shock will help bring the pH down. Don't worry about your TA until you get the pH to hold where you want it. Then, if the pH becomes volatile, you can work on TA with baking soda. In the meantime, if you have hard water, a stain/scale preventer is in order -- and you should use more chlorine than normal to make up for the fact that very little of the chlorine is in the killing acid form at pH over 7.5.