Hot Tub Forum
Original => Hot Tub Forum => Topic started by: anne on April 10, 2006, 06:57:45 pm
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I refilled my tub about a week ago. I was using test strips at that point which twice indicated that my water started with a pH of about 6.8 and about 40-60 TA. I added bicarb (6TBSP to 390 gal) and the next day had a pH of about 7.3 and TA of 120. I did not measure these values again for a few days, until I got a Taylor test kit. Then I had a pH of 8.0 and a TA of 120! Added dry acid (Leisuretime) and several hours later pH was down to 7.3. Then today (2 days later) pH is back up to 7.8! TA is still 110-120.
I dont understand what keeps pushing my pH up. I add chlorine about one daily. Started the tub with Metal Gon, but have added no other products. Any ideas?
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Sounds to me like your Amalgamator Valve is out of allignment.
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;)
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Your levels aren't that bad and you used two differnt methods for the the first two tests. Obviously you are aware of that) Test PH levels half as often using the same Taylor test kit and let us know how that goes. Since your water should last at least 3 months, there is no hurry to make fine adjustments. Try waiting 48 hours after making a PH change before checking again. This will avoid what I call the PH yo-yo effect.
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Your levels aren't that bad and you used two differnt methods for the the first two tests. Obviously you are aware of that) Test PH levels half as often using the same Taylor test kit and let us know how that goes. Since your water should last at least 3 months, there is no hurry to make fine adjustments. Try waiting 48 hours after making a PH change before checking again. This will avoid what I call the PH yo-yo effect.
or check your Amalgamator Valve. ;D
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or check your Amalgamator Valve. ;D
Is that like the left-handed smoke shifter? ;D
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I'm not sure, but I believe it is just behind the "Tension Intenuator" ;)
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As everybody knows, Arctic Amalgamator valves are the best out there. The dealer told me so. So I dont think that is the problem. ;D
Yes, you are right, I used 2 different methods, which adds questions. After getting the first 8.0 pH with the titrating kit, I did a strip, which was 7.8-8.0. So I dont think it was just that the strip was inaccurate. I am probably at the mercy of newbie-heebie-geebies. I'll mellow out and not measure it again for a few days. Just added a bit more acid today after the 7.8 reading.
So you guys can assure me that if my pH isn't perfect for a few days/weeks here and there, I wont kill my tub? I'm obsessing over the little circular slide rule in my Taylor test kit. I want balanced water!!!!!!!
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Great post Anne, Clearly you are aware, and I think we all have been through it. Rest assured, a few days of 8.0 or 7.0 PH will not kill your tub, but it does get easier
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Aeration mixed with hot water (both present in spas) will naturally cause the ph to rise. Just keep your TA in the proper range adjust ph accordingly.
Good Luck
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hmmmm, i have been using my venturi controls more in the last few days.
thanks for the vote of confidence, wmccall!
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Now, I'm far from an expert....these levels are a bit high, but are they worth chasing down?
If someone had decent water quality, tried to get the levels to lower, but would creep back up in a few days, is it that bad?
I was told too, better to be a bit high, than low.
? ? ? ? ? ???
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Aeration mixed with hot water (both present in spas) will naturally cause the ph to rise. Just keep your TA in the proper range adjust ph accordingly.
Good Luck
My experience would agree with that. This is one reason I use Sea Klear MPS to shock every week or two. It does cause the PH to drop (its un buffered) but the Alk levels stay reasonable.
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With chlorine, I thought it was better to be a bit low than a bit high, for more effective sanitation.
With my Taylor "watergram" (the slide rule thingy) if I match up my water hardness of 400-500 (using 450) and TA of 110 (seems to average between 110-120) then at 104F, my pH should be 7.0, with a +/-0.5 range, right? So I was aiming for 7.2-7.4
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With chlorine, I thought it was better to be a bit low than a bit high, for more effective sanitation.
Anne, you're dead on! Chlorine is more effective at lower ph levels. By the time your ph creeps up to 7.8 your chlorine is only working at about 20% effectiveness.
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I tried to be patient, and after yesterday morning adding another 4 tsp dry acid, I checked pH tonight and it is over 8.0!!! Before the acid it was about 7.8. And yes, it is the "spa down" not spa up" I added. :P :-/ So I just added another 1/2 oz.
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The calcium hardness is also a factor in balancing the water.
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My calcium hardness is about 450. I'm taking that into account in trying to balance my water, but I don't see how it would make my pH so subbornly high dispite acid treatment...... :-/
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I'm not sure, but I believe it is just behind the "Tension Intenuator" ;)
After they day I had at work today, I SERIOUSLY needed a tension attenuator, and dispite annoying ph creep-up, the tub was a very good "attenuator"! :D Ah, if I just did not have to go back tomorrow morning......
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Ann,
Was your calcium that high out of the tap? Not normal for Sacramento.
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Any suggestions for a color blind new tub owner?
Is most of the testing done with color charts?
Colors tend to "run together" with my color blindness.
How can I test my levels?
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Ann,
Was your calcium that high out of the tap? Not normal for Sacramento.
Well, officially I'm yolo county, so my water source may be different than Elk Grove. I thought we were known for pretty hard water here. But yes, that is out of the tap.
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Well, officially I'm yolo county, so my water source may be different than Elk Grove. I thought we were known for pretty hard water here. But yes, that is out of the tap.
You are correct. If your water is similar to Woodland, Davis, dixon water you do have high TA, high Calcium. You need a lot of pH Decreaser to drive the TA down. If you do not drive it down, the pH will constantly bounce back up.
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That seems to be true. The weird thing is, I initially tested my tap water to figure out TA and pH, found both to be low, and added baking soda. Now I'm fighting the other direction tp get pH down, but TA is still ok. Thanks for the advice.
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Any suggestions for a color blind new tub owner?
Is most of the testing done with color charts?
Colors tend to "run together" with my color blindness.
How can I test my levels?
Zep, the colors run together even if you're not color blind, IMO.....I've had more trouble reading the colors than I thought possible...maybe you could strike up a deal with a neighbor or your tub dealer, asking them to help you read the colors?