Hot Tub Forum
General => General info Somewhat hot tub related => Topic started by: Gomboman on March 15, 2006, 11:44:15 pm
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How did the Pergo floors turn out Brooke? Was it easier or harder than you anticipated? My wife wants some installed in our kids bonus room upstairs. Post some pics when you have time. I'm sure it looks great.
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Man, you have tight dealdlines and expectations, huh. :) We haven't started it yet. We are still in process of tiling the bathroom. J wanted that done first. We should be done in the next week or so with that. But we have vacation coming up in the beginning of April, so I think we will probably wait till the first of May to do it. Plus the neighborhood association is getting strict on CC&Rs and we got letters this weekend saying we have to paint the house (which is less than 2 years old, the paint job... not the house), replace the fence (the 1/2 we didn't do), etc. If I can't win appeal, $$$ may go to that instead. Hopefully not.
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I'm so sorry. :-[ I thought I read somewhere that you finished your flooring. Take your time. Good luck with the neighborhood police. ;D
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No need to apologize. We shoulda been done by now. My mom is flying in next week and so I had every intention of being done before she got here, now I just hope to have a toilet installed in the bathroom by then.
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You're tiling your bathroom? Walls and/or floor?
Need any tips?
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Oh,here's a good site for tile/stone...
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/
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We are just doing the floor. We got all the pieces cut/chipped last week and dry fitted and just have mortar them down.
Thanks for the help.
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You got a letter telling you that you HAVE to paint your house?
In your opinion, is the house needing paint?
Just wondering.
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You got a letter telling you that you HAVE to paint your house?
In your opinion, is the house needing paint?
Just wondering.
Yes, the letter says we have until the 30th of March to paint the house (we got the letter Saturday). We have owned the home since Aug 04 and the house was painted prior to it being listed for sale. The house looks like it was painted yesterday. There is not one spot that even looks like it needs to be hosed off. I talked to our person at the management company and apparently more than 200 letters were sent out. She is noting my file for the time being and said the board of directors will send someone out to re-evaluate it.
The other letter said we have until the 23rd (we got it Wed) to repair the back fence. There is nothing wrong with it, so once again she is noting the file and someone will re-evaluate and let us know what to do. I'm guessing they either a) don't like that we have 1/2 wood 1/2 vinyl fencing (though you don't see them meet from street it is covered by the house) or b) they don't like that I added the bamboo reed fencing around the hot tub to give us privacy.
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Boy, they sure didn't give you much time, did they?
Hopefully common sense will prevail and they'll see that your home doesn't need this work. And if they don't like your fence you'd think they'd say what they thought was wrong with it, like citing some association bylaw that forbids your fence stuff.
Maybe it's time for you to run for Association President.
I bet you could get Terminator to pose for some campaign posters. Something like-
"Vote for Brooke for Association President, and nobody gets hurt" Something like that.
Good luck with the association, though.
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Looks like I'm buying Pergo today... Home Depot has some on sale for more than 50% off...
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Hey I have a bunch of Pergo in my house. I did it all myself and I gaaaaaauruntee you will love it. Opt for the thicker pad instead of the white cheapo stuff. Get the proper install tools and a good fine toothed blade for your table saw.
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Associations are good for miscommunication....UGH.
As far as the fencing......if it's over your bamboo, let 'em know that you tub in the NUDE with your 90 year old GRANDMOTHER who's "slightly overweight, and can't shave anymore but SUCH a nice woman!!" (nude also), but if they REALLY want that fencing down.....you want no letters complaining, or asking for a better view! ;)
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Boy did I score. I think I got almost as good of a job on my floor as I did on my tub. I paid $9/box (21 sq ft) for 8mm 25yr warranty Floormaster laminate flooring (regular price was $43/box).
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Can't tell you how to install that kind. They all have different tounge and groove set up and a little different install procedure so? Should be close to the same (fine toothed blade to cut)
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I'd have to say that associations sometimes can be a PITA. I lived in with a condo association for 13 years and they sometimes made the stupidest rules! I joined the board to try to straighten out the business practice and realized that some people have no business sense. I'm sure the "official letter" went out because of some stupid reason.
As for the flooring, I bought Wilson Art laminate for my family room. It is the older style with glue and I had it installed. I watched them install it and it seemed fairly easy but they had a lot of straps to keep everything together. Today's laminate supposedly just snap together (my wife and I are looking to put laminate into the kitchen) and seem really easy to install. I still am having a professional install it since they need to remove a subfloor in a kitchen full of appliances and cabinets.
Anyway, when my original laminate was installed the people used a 4" battery operated saw that looked like a grinder not a circular saw. I believe the blade has a very fine cut patten to it. Make sure that you cut the side that's going to be hidden by the trim - sounds stupid but lay it out so that you know which side it'll be. There's 2 tongue sides and 2 groove sides ... of couse I'm probably stating the obvious since it sounds like you have more project experience than I do! :D
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Thanks for the input Vinny and Tman.
This is a glueless product, so I don't think the install should be too bad. We haven't looked into the tool side of things yet. I should actually look and see if Depot or Lowes has a how to class today as Tball was cancelled due to the rain. I'm not real worried about the install... even though we are clueless we fake it well and usually it turns out well. I doubt we will start for at least another month. I want to be done with the entire house in less than 90 days though, as that is what I have on my return policy for the 'extra'.
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Tiling is done! Wahooo!
I'm stoked to get started on the pergo, but I think we will wait till the end of April beginning of May to do it.
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You're tiling your bathroom? Walls and/or floor?
Need any tips?
I do. I have a "typical " bathroom (about 6x 12) with a fiberglass tub/shower insert, linolium floors, and old vanity and sink, and of course a toilet.
Want to rip out the tub/shower and tile in one large shower with a bench. I am thinkning on having the tile in the shower match the floor tile. New vanity/sink and a new toilet. I am planning on having a pro come in and do the tile work. Any tips? :)
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Expect a bid for at least twice as much as you think it'll be, and expect it to take at least double the amount of time you're told.
That's from the 3 people who I know who've had this done.
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Expect a bid for at least twice as much as you think it'll be, and expect it to take at least double the amount of time you're told.
That's from the 3 people who I know who've had this done.
If I double the ammont I've planned for, then I aint doing it. ;) (but I do get your point, thanks Brewman)
I will price out the material and talk with my contractor.
funny side note, I was in a design store browsing to get some ideas and the salesperson showed me a pre formed fiberglass shower stall with about 14 nozzles. the price of the cheaper nozzles (chrome) would run $3500. :o / That's just the nozzles, not the unit, not the plumbing, just the nozzles.
"And over here sir, we offer a hand made glass door for $9000.00"
yea right. ::)
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Get some old Italian guy to do the tiling, take this from a middle-age Italian guy. ;D
I was informed by a plumber that if you install tiles in a shower stall floor to have it fiberglassed not rubber booted. But the cost for that alone is $200.
I have 2 bathrooms that I plan on tiling (remember I'm Italian) and I probably doing it myself to save the $$$$. I'm planning on using a plumber for the shower and bathtub fixtures but the tiling job I'll do (except for the fiberglassing of the shower stall floor).
I want to go on record to say I'm dreading doing these bathrooms! ;)
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That's a pretty scary room to remodel. I'd spend the extra bucks and get the best tile foundation I could, even if it ran a few hundred more.
Do the job right the first time, nothing worse than water getting past tile (or any other surface) and not getting disovered until things start to mold, and decay.
Also- rent a really good quality water cooled tile saw.
It makes any cutting a breeze over using the cheaper tools. You will pay more to rent a good saw than you can buy a cheepy one for, but it made my tile job go much smoother.
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Get some old Italian guy to do the tiling, take this from a middle-age Italian guy. ;D
I was informed by a plumber that if you install tiles in a shower stall floor to have it fiberglassed not rubber booted. But the cost for that alone is $200.
I have 2 bathrooms that I plan on tiling (remember I'm Italian) and I probably doing it myself to save the $$$$. I'm planning on using a plumber for the shower and bathtub fixtures but the tiling job I'll do (except for the fiberglassing of the shower stall floor).
I want to go on record to say I'm dreading doing these bathrooms! ;)
I've got 2 to do as well. :P I wall papered the other one last year, but the remaining two I am looking at tile.
When you say "boot" are you refereing to the drain pan?
The guy who did my kitchen a few years ago was a korean imigrant and was a real artist, and he hustled. He had pictures of his house and every room in his house, including the hallways was tiled. :) it was a bit tacky, but he had quite the skill.
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I agree on the tile saw. I have a 10" diamond blade and I can borrow a wet saw from my wife's uncle. Even if I have to rent one, I have my own blade - it cuts tile like butter.
As far as the "boot", I guess it's the shower stall floor (maybe it is the drain pan). I've seen on home improvement shows how they put a rubber membrane between the floor and tile to make it waterproof. The plumber I talked to said any foot traffic will put holes into the membrane until it's covered and the fiberglass is indestructable.
If you have someone, that's great. I do it to stretch my money ... there are some things that I do and some I have to farm out - so far for me that's been new furnace and central AC, siding and windows, laminate floor (charged $2.00 SF to install couldn't beat the price), electric upgrade and tub wiring (this was done by a friend), above ground pool and tree removal. But I have redone my family room, 1/2 bath (no tile yet but ...), kitchen, deck and a few outside doors.
When I do the bathrooms I plan on ripping out the old green board and installing the concrete backer board so hopefully NO water problems especially if I don't do the plumbing myself (I can't solder pipes for s***).
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You could learn to sweat copper pipe- it's really not all that hard once you get the hang of it.
Usual mistakes are using too much heat on the joint, and having moisture in the pipes. Both will ruin the joint.
My issue with it is I tend to overuse the solder.
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Take it from a plumber.....you can never overuse solder. As long as you don't overheat as Brewman said, gobs of dripped solder on the floor is never a bad thing. As long as it isn't on that new tile. The most important part of sweating joints is cleaning the pipe and the fitting (emery cloth and fitting brushes) Gob on the flux and use loads of solder. Do not overheat. Use bread to stop water if you are adding to exsiting and sweat on a male thread adapter first, then screw on a valve, then clean out the bread and close the valve and start from there do all your joints dry. ;D
That'll be 300 bucks please and I'll hold the butt crack.
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You could learn to sweat copper pipe- it's really not all that hard once you get the hang of it.
Usual mistakes are using too much heat on the joint, and having moisture in the pipes. Both will ruin the joint.
My issue with it is I tend to overuse the solder.
remeber, flux is your friend. I can solder if i have to. sometimes it's not as "pretty" as I would like, but hell it works.
Still having a tough time soldering the PVC pipes. What's the trick there? I think I have the tourch too hot. Never works for me. ::)
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I hope you're not using MAPP gas for that PVC.
That might explain your heat problem.
Yeah, when I learned to sweat copper, I had to watch it that I didn't "boil' the flux out of the joint.
Good to know that it's hard to overuse solder. Guess that's why all my joints stick.
It may also explain how I got on Oatey's christmas card list. ;)
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LOL...the trick with PVC is to make sure your welders wire speed is not set to fast, then as long as the amps are correct. A new liner heat sheild and tip will also make the job easier.
Pretty hard to screw up a PVC joint. I have done 364 joints in one house. That was the record, and not one leaked, well some of the vent pipe may have but the home owner will never know....unless they go up in the attic and it stinks!!
I did a commercial spa job a couple weeks ago that was a real mess elbows and reducers and pipe going every which way. There were about 4 leaks and a bad pump. I replaced the pump and rerouted the PVC, added a few unions to make the components easier to remove and made the room twice as big. The owner didn't like the bill but they loved the room. Not one leak and it's been 2 weeks, but I got my fingers crossed.