Hot Tub Forum
Original => Hot Tub Forum => Topic started by: tex912 on August 23, 2011, 03:25:31 pm
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I just tested my flo switch and got a 0 with the pumps off and a 1.0 with the circ pump running. My multi meter does not have a beep for good circuit and the ohm dial was set at 200. Are these readings good or is this switch shot. I Tested it because I got an FL1 code.
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What does the FL1 code mean?
What brand of multi-meter do you have?
Is is digital or analog?
Do you have a wiring schematic?
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Hi JulieMor. Thanks for answering. I have a 2003 Sundance/Sweetwater Palermo. FL1 is a no flow code and is for a dirty filter. Flow switch is malfunctioning open. Air lock condition at circ pump intake. Heater deactivated. I have a cheap Cen-Tech digital multimeter w/no beep/tone. I do have a schematic if needed.
The fl1 code seems to only come on when the tub is heating. When it does, it shuts down the tub until for about an hour, then everything works again.
I installed a new filter, and made sure there were no air bubbles. I am trying to rule out the flow switch but all this talk of continuity and infinate resistance is driving me crazy. I tested the switch leads with circ pump running and off. The meter was set on ohms at 200 and registered 0 with the pumps off and no flow, and 1.0 with the tub running and flow. I also rechecked after the fl1 code appeared and both tests were the same. I also tried changing the setting on the meter to 2000, 20K, 200K and 2000K but no different readings.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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If you touch the two leads of the meter together do you also get a reading of 1.0? If so, the flo switch is probably good.
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On the 200 setting I get a 1 with the leads touching. So switch is probably good. Filter is new. I can rest my hand on the circ pump and it is just slightly warm. After reading many articles here I assume it is good. What would the next step be? Should I try cleaning pump and heater w/vinigar. Possibly build up causing flow issues?
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Well. I disconnected the circ pump hose just before entering the tub and just after the heater tub and filled w/vinigar. Let sit over night and flushed out. Reconnected everything and blew out the bubbles and still got fl1 flashing w/temp.
I hate to buy a new board if its something else. Anyone have any suggestions?
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90% chance it's a bad flow switch. You could cut and jump the two wire together and see if the FL1 clears.
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Thanks Jim but I already jumped it w/a piece of wire. I guess Im down to the heater or the control board. I'm really leaning towards the control board. I noticed that when I just leave it alone, the FL1 goes away after a while but then comes back on again later. I think its only when the heater is on. Like the heater is not getting enough flow and shutting down the system.
I was at the spa store picking their brains and one of the guys there said I am supposed to flush the system w/some kind of system cleaner once a year to get rid of any build up in the lines. I've had this tub since 2003 and have never done this or even heard of this. Costs about 20bucks and he said I just dump it in the hot tub, let the system run for a bit, then shut off for 24 hours. What do you guys think. Bunch of bull or is this something everyone does? I change the water every 6months but really dont use it much in the summer, so I change it in the early spring and late fall so I have nice water in the winter.
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Don't jump the flow switch until you turn the spa off and then back on...the system should look for an open switch at start up and then closed as the pump begins to run.
:P
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At what point in the start up should I jump it. This is what it does.
I shut it off, then turned it on. The display goes thru its start up.... 345....888 both with the heater light on, then the temp comes on and.....nothing. FL1 alternating with temp. Sometimes I hear a click down there by the board or maybe the pump but nothing. . If I leave it sit for a while it fixes itself. I ran the tub last night several times and then when I finally got in it thinking it was ok ... with all the pumps running it just shut off and got the fl1 and this after at least 4 jet cycles.
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Really a strange one. The heater itself cannot give the flo error. The only thing that causes flo1 is a bad circ pump, clogged filter and a bad flow switch which will usually give a flo2 error have you checked the connection on the circuit board itself? If those are loose you may be getting intermittent contact where sometimes its working sometimes not.
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Yes jim. I have had it unhooked and hooked back up, jumped and checked. Im thinking circuit board as soon as i can afford it.
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Ok Jim.
I was just out screwing with the tub again because the fl1 came on. I shut the tub off and jumped the flow switch w/a wire, turned it on and got fl2. so i unplugged my jumper wire and it went back to fl1. I plugged it back in and the fl1 went away but could not use any buttons, ie jets or light. With the jumper wire still attached and the temp at 102 I set the heat to 104 and the heater came on but no circ pump so pulled the jumper wire and it shut off and got fl1 again.
Come on all you spa guru's. Whats up with this tub? Is it the circ pump? The circuit board or the flow switch?
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Anybody know a good inexspensive spa tech in the nw indiana area. Im in demotte.
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Understanding the purpose of the flow switch and how it works. It's protect the heater from coming on without adequate water flow and prevents the heater from "dry firing". A serviceman would be there and gone in 30 minutes after evaluating the flow switch in this manner.
There are 2 messages:
1) "flashing flo" means the flow switch did not close and disables the heater. Correct adequate water flow. Check the plastic screen in the filter bay after removing the filter for leaves, plastic, etc that could restrict water flow. I will commonly find leaves or candy wrappers.
2) "solid flo" indicate the switch did NOT OPEN properly when the system shut down, upon start up "solid flo" recognizes a switch that "did not open" and everything becomes disabled. Solution, replace flow switch.
Best way to analyze, power down, pull the sensor loom out and put it back in, the circuit board now recognizes the switch opened and when it starts up you can see the fingers close in the transparent fitting and all functions work. Another way is to use your meter to measure resistance of the switch which should be infinity, or open. If it shows any resistance, replace it.
Flashing flow is either a bad circ pump, or inadequate water flow caused by dirty filter, obstruction, or something sucked in when the filter was removed during operation.
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Hi clover. Thanks for helping. The tub gets fl1 alternating w/temp. I have checked all openings and replaced filter. When the tub is running it has excellent flow, the switch in the clear tube(flow switch) is closed(contacts touching). Its when I get the fl1 alternating w/temp that all buttons except temp up and down do not work. I tested the switch for resistance with the circ pump running and the switch closed(contacts in tub touching) and got 01.2 which is the same reading I get if I touch the two meter leads together(with the meter set at 200ohms). I then shut off the tub and retested and the meter still read 1(this is the reading the meter has when leads arent contacting anything) the meter did not register. My meter does not have an infinity reading or a beep. I could get one later from a neighbor when he gets home. I will retest it when the fl1 comes on again. Usually after running the heater a little while.
I assume the Circ pump is good, it is running right now.
When I have the code I power down, I pull the loom and put it back in, power up and still have fl1. Nothing happens
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Your filter has 2 suction fittings, 1 to the main pump, and the second to the circ pump. The circ pump fitting is a plastic grid screen that might have something partially restricting flow.
Understand the flow switch make a magnetic contact opening and closing the circuit switch. It is closed by the movement of water. The circ pump is also magnetically driven. The impellar "floats" and is not connected to a "shaft drive". I doubt that you have anything in it but it wouldn't hurt to check. Open the fitting on the side allowing water to flow out purging anything in it.
What you describe, alternate or flashing flow indicates that switch is opening during operation. It could be the circ pump is weak, the flow is restricted, or the switch is bad.
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Thanks Clover. I did check both openings for debris. It was one of the first things I did. Its to late tonight to open the circ pump connection but I will definately do it tomorow. I did order a new switch just to rule it out, although I don't believe that to be the problem(please be the problem). As I said, the current switch is less than a year old and the circ pump is the newer liang pump and was installed two years ago. I'm almost positive its not the pump as it is running perfect right now. I also cleaned out that flash reactor with some CLR just to be sure that wasn't clogged up.
I'll let you know how it goes w/the flow switch when I get it in. Right now the tub is throwing the code at least once a day, then it fixes itself. I sure hope its not the board cause it's on sale till tomorrow for around 250. I think thats about half price. Oh well. Its working now so... I'm in. ;D
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Understanding the purpose of the flow switch and how it works. It's protect the heater from coming on without adequate water flow and prevents the heater from "dry firing". A serviceman would be there and gone in 30 minutes after evaluating the flow switch in this manner.
There are 2 messages:
1) "flashing flo" means the flow switch did not close and disables the heater. Correct adequate water flow. Check the plastic screen in the filter bay after removing the filter for leaves, plastic, etc that could restrict water flow. I will commonly find leaves or candy wrappers.
2) "solid flo" indicate the switch did NOT OPEN properly when the system shut down, upon start up "solid flo" recognizes a switch that "did not open" and everything becomes disabled. Solution, replace flow switch.
Best way to analyze, power down, pull the sensor loom out and put it back in, the circuit board now recognizes the switch opened and when it starts up you can see the fingers close in the transparent fitting and all functions work. Another way is to use your meter to measure resistance of the switch which should be infinity, or open. If it shows any resistance, replace it.
Flashing flow is either a bad circ pump, or inadequate water flow caused by dirty filter, obstruction, or something sucked in when the filter was removed during operation.
On his spa, FL1 is a flashing FLO. It could also be caused by a bad relay on the board
FL2 would be a solid FLO.
When you get the FL1, is the pump running? If it is not, then it is either a bad pump or a bad relay on the board.
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No circ pump and cant use any jet pumps or lights. The fl1 usually fixes itself leading me to beleive its the relay. That will be next after the flow switch since it is cheaper. Thanks guys. Ill let you know.
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Got new flow switch and installed, no luck. Got fl1 this morning. Looks like the board is next.
Jim, Ill be calling you after the holiday.
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Have not gotten another fl1 in a couple days, but we are gonna test it out tonight ;).
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Wow. No problems with the hot tub now. I can't believe it was a flow sensor, But so far so good. I checked the new flow sensor against the old one with my meter and I get the same readings. Im thinking it was a connection problem. Anyway thanks for all the help. Hopefully it keeps working. ;D
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update....got in last night and it was not working. FL1 !!!!! will have to order board now. this blows. I just put the deck back together the other day. Never fails.