Hot Tub Forum
Original => Hot Tub Forum => Topic started by: Chas on September 27, 2008, 05:12:17 pm
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I sold a wooden hot tub. I will be replacing an old one with a very simple system.
I ordered the tub from Robert's Hot Tubs.
(http://photos-229.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v337/248/76/1434776229/n1434776229_30080533_4772.jpg)
Now, as they say, "some assembly required."
I'll keep you posted. This is going in place of an older tub, on a deck high up on a hill overlooking some acreage above Ventura. Good ocean view. Should be fairly easy - [size=12]they always say that[/size][/b] - so stay tuned.
8-)
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Patience is a virtue!!
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Patience is a virtue!!
You sure took your time sayin' that!
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PLEASE, take a quick look at the assembly instructions. Our tubs are VERY different that anything anyone has ever made in the past. There is NO "final stave". No pack of various sized staves to fit in at the end, and nothing to cut. This tends to be a bit confusing to people that are used to that type of (inaccurate) milled wood. It should go together in 1/2 to 2/3 of the time you're accustomed to ( I can do one in about 20 minutes).... The number 1 mistake people make is to initially put the staves on too tight. CALL MY CELL if you have any questions or problems.
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Awesome! Thanks, I will.
8-)
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The tub is still in the crate, in my warehouse. I had some other jobs to finish, but I got out to this job yesterday, and in one and a half hours we had removed all the plumbing, moved one solar sensor, measured the old tub so I can duplicate the benches, dismantled the tub itself and lowered all the pieces to the ground floor where we stacked them for the owner.
Waiting patiently:
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/HotTub007.jpg)
They had TWO jets - here is one. They only want two in the new tub (I know I know), but I'm sure they will be very strong.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/HotTub001.jpg)
They had a very low-tech drain system - a hole, drilled low in the (Gordon and Grant) tub had a cork in it.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/HotTub004.jpg)
When it was time for a water change, they just pulled the cork and the water ran out. The water ran onto the heater, pump, filter, control system, and anything which was stored in the shed area below the tub. There was wood rot in this area - big surprise - and it was not very convenient. So, of course, I will be plumbing in a tee and valve to be able to drain the tub out to the avocado groves that surround this house for close to a mile in each direction.
I can't wait to get some photos of the awesome view from the tub! But I think I want to bring my real camera so I can show the whole job and the view for my album in the store.
8-)
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Soon we shall see what truly is the best hot tub! ;D ;D ;D
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We got rained out today. Almost one tenth of an inch!!!
Back on the job Tuesday.
8-)
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Please don't take offense, but that's a barrel with a couple of jets.
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Please don't take offense, but that's a barrel with a couple of jets.
You are so right! Did I mention that the cork was INSIDE the tub so you had to get it loose with your toe?
Why would I (or anyone) take offense at that statement? It is not only true, but the folks who have tubs love them for what they have as much as for what they do NOT have.
I had one - my very first hot tub was a real hot tub. I had some trouble with it due to the fact that it was already about 15 years old when I got it, and so was the equipment. But while it lasted, we loved the deep seating, the high volume of water, the roominess and the ability to shut down all the equipment and still soak for an hour in peace and quiet.
I enjoy jets more now, so I usually have a portable spa with lots of them. But there are folks who still love what a simple tub can do for them.
This one was a Gordon and Grant, but I am replacing it with a tub from Robert's Hot tubs. However, as I mentioned, I have not been able to talk the folks into any jet upgrades. I tried...
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We're sweating on the job today - too hot for me. But we need to get 'er done, so we will push ahead.
This is the THIRD tub to grace this location. Here are two slats, one from the oldest tub, and one from the one we just took out.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/IMG_0728-1.jpg)
Here is the equipment area
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/IMG_0726.jpg)
Here is a look from the floor of the equipment area looking up through the hole in the deck.
(http://<a href="http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/?action=view¤t=IMG_0724.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/IMG_0724.jpg" border="0" alt="Looking up"></a>)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/IMG_0725-1.jpg)
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Looks good! Did you pull a permit for all the work, you guys doing the dry rot repair also??
I agree while I love having jets on and the feel on my aches and pains, I have a perfect place on my 6 acres one of those would sit great on!! ;)
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This reminds me of the one we use at our cabin up North. The water is pumped out of the lake with a generator right into the round wooden tub. The only bacteria that grows is what was originally pumped in! (yuck! :P n)
Up North Bacteria is totally different than Surburban Bacteria!
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Well we spent most of the day trying to get this job wrapped up. The view is spectacular! I told the customer that when he goes on vacation, he should call me and I will come use his tub every night. Free!
A couple of changes in the plans came up today, so we didn't get to fill the tub, but it should be done tomorrow or Monday.
I think this is where we left off - old tub out of the way, plumbing all cut. Those really old benches are from a tub that sat here over thirty years ago! Beyond those are the benches from the tub we just removed. They are going to be sanded and reused. Behind those are the new staves, ready to go into place.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/IMG_0737.jpg)
Bottom is built - one of the two suctions drilled.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/IMG_0742.jpg)
I got to sweat down in the boiler room below as my worker began to put the slats in place. He is in the new tub, hence the socks.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/IMG_0752.jpg)
This was my view as Patrick placed each board - we are down to the last few in this shot. I am standing on a gas heater to reach in and pound on the staves with a rubber hammer.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/IMG_0754.jpg)
These things are so peaceful, so restful. Even empty!
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/IMG_0755.jpg)
Did I mention the view??
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/IMG_0756.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r105/Chaswolf/IMG_0739.jpg)
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Looks good! you guys doing the dry rot repair also??
Turned out there was only one board which had rot - the customer had cut two other boards to gain access and see if he could get the old tub to hold water. So we replaced all three boards. It took about ten minutes once the tub was completely out of the way. They were not even nailed in place - simply nailed to a rimmer on one end.
It was all constructed of Pressure Treated lumber, and had been rebuilt between the first and second hot tub.
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So how long did the whole project take? Did you bill hourly or for the whole job? Was it worth it?
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Didn't get to finish it today - the customer decided he DID want a diverter. I ordered it, but it didn't arrive till late in the day. I finished up all other plumbing, cleaned out the tub, and put a couple inches of water in it.
I gave this guy a fixed price - I am a contractor - and have made change orders for the things he changed his mind about. Also, the shipping came in at double what the estimate was, and he is aware that can happen and will cover the extra cost.
Yes, it will be worth it, and I have enjoyed the job. I can't even remember when I did my last wood tub.
8-)
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Yes, it will be worth it, and I have enjoyed the job. I can't even remember when I did my last wood tub.
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That's why I do the company sauna installs, its therapy!
I asked all of that specifically to hear you say that you enjoyed it....I can't wait to do another wood tub.....it's been many years!
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I have been going up the hill to this house to add water to get the tub to seal up. I have to admit that it has very few leaks compared to the ones I have done before. But there is one which is pretty big, and I may have to take some special steps.
I put masking tape on the inside of all the leaking joints, and then filled the tub up to about a foot. Overnight most of the leaks stopped.
I will be doing the final plumbing today - the customer asked for no jets at first, so I ordered four suction fittings and planned on just having two suctions and two returns. Then he said he wanted some jet action - I told him we should put in a couple of clusters with a diverter, but he said no.
As the job progressed, he decided he wanted two jets just like before. Then he decided to go with a diverter so he can run one, the other, or both of the jets.
All the parts finally came in, he approved the price changes, and we will finish it off today. He is on vacation, so I will continue to go add water for the next four days.
8-)
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Greetings Lads,
This is my first post here and I'm glad it's on an all wood thread. It's good to see there are some people who know a real hot tub is wood, deep and has few or no jets! Spas are acrylic with lots of jets.
We are installing a 5ft diameter x 4ft deep cedar tub tomorrow. It has all digital controls, 6 jets (I can add more if desired), a 4hp motor, a 1.5hp motor, 100 sq-ft filter, ionizer, lights, a modern cover and a real drain with a hose connection...not a cork ;) I know these all cedar tubs aren't for everyone and require a bit more upkeep. They are also more sensitive to certain chemicals. But, I just love the beauty of the wood and the depth. We bought it for our mountain/lake house.
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Hello Chas,
I was wondering if you had more to report. Our tub arrived on Oct 15. It was originally for our mountain house, but we decided to keep it at our primary residence since it will require a watchful eye. I have some pics to post:
This is our view from the mountain house. A hot tub is definitely going to find it's way onto the deck:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0797.jpg)
This is the lake taken from our boat. Unfortunately, you can't see the lake from the house:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0031.jpg)
Here is the tub as it arrived. Ours is by Callaway Woodworks. Along with RH, they are one of the better manufacturers. It comes in a wooden crate, which was quite nice, but a chore to disassemble when it was time to get rid of it:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0128.jpg)
Here is a pic of all the pieces on the deck:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0132.jpg)
Box-O-PVC parts:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0134.jpg)
The base is basically pre-assembled and in two pieces:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0135.jpg)
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Here is the tub as the staves are being added. The cedar aroma is very nice:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0137.jpg)
Another look:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0141.jpg)
I decided to treat the outside with tongue oil. It really brings out the color and here you can see the difference it makes:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0142.jpg)
[td][/td]
I really like the look of the Callaway bench seats and they can be mounted at my desired height:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0152.jpg)
A couple of equipment pics:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0162.jpg)
If you look near the bottom left, you can see the drain that comes off the filter. I'm going to install an elbow to make hose attachment easier:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0166.jpg)
I still have to build a deck around the tub to cover the equipment and plumbing.
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Tonight, I added 2-3 inches of water. As expected, there are a few small leaks. Most have already sealed. However, as I'm typing this, it's 41F outside (N Atlanta) and I'm afraid that may slow the swelling of the wood:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0159.jpg)
Another look:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0172.jpg)
Looking down through the pergola from our bedroom window:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0175.jpg)
This tub is equipped with:
4hp pump
1.5hp bubbler
6 jets w/air controls
2 suctions
100 sq-ft filter
ionizer
lights
5.5 kw heat
digital controls
cover
5ft diameter x 4ft deep
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The cost of the wooden tubs is not that much less than a high tech fiberglass 50 jet fiberoptic technical wonder with a built in CD player, foot and neck massagers and they seem to get really nasty looking from all the chemicals.
I am just trying to figure out the quant vs cool ratio when they cost about the same.
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The cost of the wooden tubs is not that much less than a high tech fiberglass 50 jet fiberoptic technical wonder with a built in CD player, foot and neck massagers and they seem to get really nasty looking from all the chemicals.
I am just trying to figure out the quant vs cool ratio when they cost about the same.
It not so much what it cost...it's what I wanted. As I said in my first post, it was purchased for our mountain house and the cedar was specifically for aesthetics. For me that view screamed for a natural wood tub. However, it wound up at our primary home.
It's 4' deep and I don't have to lie down in it to cover most of my torso. As far as the nasty looking ones you've seen in pictures, those are either old or weren't cared for properly. I do agree that the chemicals can be a problem, that's why this one has a copper ionizer and Nature2. It will only have 0.5 ppm dichlor. I've done a lot of reading here and on other forums and found that the N2 low chlorine recipe is effective if you follow it. I was originally going to use MPS, but will only use dichlor. MPS will degrade the wood quicker as will Bromine...at least that's what I've been told by the manufacturer.
As can be seen in one of the photos, the equipment is mounted on an aluminum skid which will be under a surrounding deck that has to be built. Since I assembled the tub, I'm quite familiar with it's plumbing and equipment. If something breaks, I can simply open the access door that will be built into the surround and get to everything. The tub is supposed to last 15yrs and if I get 10, I'll be OK. At that time, I may get a modern tub and a floating bromine system for convenience. It was about 35F at my house in suburban Atlanta this morning when I woke up. I wish it was filled and warm, that's one thing about the fiberglass/acrylic tubs...you connect the wiring, fill them and turn them on.
To sum it up: different strokes for different folks.
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That's a great looking tub and far more complete than what I ordered from RHT. In my case I was replacing a tub already in place, which has a one HP pump and gas heater. That's it - no blower, no light, only two jets with a diverter between them, and a simple switch on the wall a few steps away for control. In fact, now that I have seen it run, I think the open-face impeller in the all-bronze pump needs to be adjusted: it simply doesn't move much water. The two jets are fine, but I expected them to really blow!
The Tub I installed is full of water and we are waiting for one last crack to swell closed. I missed a slight gap between two staves, and it poured when first filled. I covered it with masking tape so we could proceed, and that stemmed the tide. But it is down to a drip now and the rest have stopped.
Some time this week I will drain it, sand down the lip and run it with my router and then install the benches from the last tub. They overlap, so they have three different heights and the customer liked them. I'm going to sand them lightly and install them just as they were before.
This is the third tub to be in this spot, spanning thirty years. Both old tubs are around, in bits and pieces. The benches from the very fist tub are sitting on the deck next to the tub just because they look so 'cool' to the owner.
This tub has a solar heat exchanger, and the owner reports having to use the gas heat only a couple of times a year - or if he does a water change and wants it hot that same day.
8-)
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WOW there's a lot of flat grain wood in there.
Mind if I ask a few questions? Other than some some boards from tubs of theirs we've replaced, I've never seen one of their tubs.
How was the crate put together? Nails or screws?.... and how did you get rid of it?
The wood attached to the underside of the bottom is cute. I assume it's there to hold the pieces of wood together? Though, from a few of your pictures it looks like there's some pretty nice gaps even after being assembled. I wounder why they just didn't glue it all together.
Did all the staves come pre-drilled?
One of your pictures shows a stave that's narrower than all the others. Did you have cut it to that size?
How thick are the staves?
Do you know the brand of the jets?
Was the silicone required, or recommended around the jets on the inside of the tub?
Thanks!
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It not so much what it cost...it's what I wanted. As I said in my first post, it was purchased for our mountain house and the cedar was specifically for aesthetics. For me that view screamed for a natural wood tub. However, it wound up at our primary home.
It's 4' deep and I don't have to lie down in it to cover most of my torso. As far as the nasty looking ones you've seen in pictures, those are either old or weren't cared for properly. I do agree that the chemicals can be a problem, that's why this one has a copper ionizer and Nature2. It will only have 0.5 ppm dichlor. I've done a lot of reading here and on other forums and found that the N2 low chlorine recipe is effective if you follow it. I was originally going to use MPS, but will only use dichlor. MPS will degrade the wood quicker as will Bromine...at least that's what I've been told by the manufacturer.
As can be seen in one of the photos, the equipment is mounted on an aluminum skid which will be under a surrounding deck that has to be built. Since I assembled the tub, I'm quite familiar with it's plumbing and equipment. If something breaks, I can simply open the access door that will be built into the surround and get to everything. The tub is supposed to last 15yrs and if I get 10, I'll be OK. At that time, I may get a modern tub and a floating bromine system for convenience. It was about 35F at my house in suburban Atlanta this morning when I woke up. I wish it was filled and warm, that's one thing about the fiberglass/acrylic tubs...you connect the wiring, fill them and turn them on.
To sum it up: different strokes for different folks.
I hear you. I just don't see $5,000 worth of hot tub. I could make one of those myself for a fraction of the cost out of some decent wood and the extra spa pump / motor I have laying around. I gueess what I am saying is the cost seems way too high for me.
It fits perfectly with the Pacific Nortwest / Aspen lifestyle and I like the look for your location and the spectacular view.
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GW
I have to assume it's the price of good wood that makes them so expensive. If you have the equipment to make the ball and socket joints and curve the individual staves, you could do it yourself. The individual staves on my tub are milled with a curve and aren't flat. They fit together very tightly and in some places, it's difficult to see the seams. All you'd need to buy is a pump, blower, jets, control system, plumbing and the necessary milling equipment to cut and curve those staves.
The mountain house is about 2hrs away on the GA/NC border. For that reason, I decided to install the cedar tub at our primary home (it can't run a tablet dosing system). The mountain house will get a regular plastic tub or whatever those things that you like are made of ;)
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GW
I have to assume it's the price of good wood that makes them so expensive.
While there is some truth to that, the tub pictured has a HUGE amount of flat grain wood...which "ain't" all that expensive ;D ;D We just sent back about half a truck load of it, for as far as we're concerned it doesn't come close to meeting our required quality.
The ball and socket joint, just like the tongue and groove we do, has nothing to do with the quality of the tub, nor it's ability to hold water. For hundreds of years, tanks, barrels and hot tubs were made with flat sides and they held water just as well. The difference is ease of assembly. Here in the shop, I can assemble a tub in about 15 to 20 minutes. without the tongue and groove aligning the staves, I could spend another 1+ hours aligning them by hand.
The ONLY advantage to curving the staves is marketing talk. I've used curved stave tubs and flat stave tubs, and can't tell the difference. I've also talked to a lot of people that also have used both, and say the same thing. The DISADVANTAGE is that curving the stave makes it thinner. A thinner stave is weaker, more prone to warpage, has less insulating ability, and has a shorter life span due to there being less wood to spread it's natural rot resistance around (tannic acid).
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I hear you. I just don't see $5,000 worth of hot tub. I could make one of those myself for a fraction of the cost out of some decent wood and the extra spa pump / motor I have laying around. I gueess what I am saying is the cost seems way too high for me.
BOY does THAT take me back to retail! ;D If I had a dollar for everyone who saw a coverlifter for $200-$350 that said that... ;)
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While there is some truth to that, the tub pictured has a HUGE amount of flat grain wood...which "ain't" all that expensive ;D ;D We just sent back about half a truck load of it, for as far as we're concerned it doesn't come close to meeting our required quality.
The ball and socket joint, just like the tongue and groove we do, has nothing to do with the quality of the tub, nor it's ability to hold water. For hundreds of years, tanks, barrels and hot tubs were made with flat sides and they held water just as well. The difference is ease of assembly. Here in the shop, I can assemble a tub in about 15 to 20 minutes. without the tongue and groove aligning the staves, I could spend another 1+ hours aligning them by hand.
The ONLY advantage to curving the staves is marketing talk. I've used curved stave tubs and flat stave tubs, and can't tell the difference. I've also talked to a lot of people that also have used both, and say the same thing. The DISADVANTAGE is that curving the stave makes it thinner. A thinner stave is weaker, more prone to warpage, has less insulating ability, and has a shorter life span due to there being less wood to spread it's natural rot resistance around (tannic acid).
Doc,
I'm new here and just wanted to post pics of my tub since I haven't run across many threads about cedar tubs. I viewed this thread as an independent thread by a guy who is installing a tub for a client. I'm not here to do any marketing. But you do make it sound like I could build one myself. My local Home Depot has a selection of cedar boards :)
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I've talked to a number of people that have successfully built their own wooden hot tubs. It's not all that difficult if you have some basic wood working skills, and are thoughtful and patient. Heck, they've been making wooden barrels for hundreds of years, without the type of equipment available today to even hobby people.
Home depot wood though, I would highly question ;D . Though I have no doubt, a hot tub could be made from it, I would seriously question any expected life span....given the quality of ANY wood I've ever seen there :-/
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Doc, what is the significance of the grain in the wood? I specifically picked wood with lots of grain when I did my kitchen cabinets, but that was based purely on aesthetics..and I love the grain in my cedar ceiling. Does the grain affect how the wood expands when it is wet? What is the criteria for acceptable wood? I am just curious....
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BOY does THAT take me back to retail! ;D If I had a dollar for everyone who saw a coverlifter for $200-$350 that said that... ;)
Actually, I could make one of those too......
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Doc, what is the significance of the grain in the wood? I specifically picked wood with lots of grain when I did my kitchen cabinets, but that was based purely on aesthetics..and I love the grain in my cedar ceiling. Does the grain affect how the wood expands when it is wet? What is the criteria for acceptable wood? I am just curious....
The grain of the wood has many different properties or effects on the over all hot tub. The tightness of the grain, or number of growth rings indicates how slowly or fast a tree has grown. Trees that get less sunlight and\or less water grow more slowly.
(http://www.rhtubs.com/images/redwood-cedar.jpg)
In the picture above, the top piece of wood is from one of our hot tubs, while the bottom is from a "competitors" (which by the way rotted out and was replaced after only 2 years). Slower growing wood with tighter grain has more, much more rot resistance. It's also smoother to the touch.
Vertical grain wood (the opposite of your cabinets is harder to come by. Less than 25% of wood milled is "vertical grain", making it considerable more expensive (up to twice the cost). However, vertical grain wood is infinitely more desirable than the cheaper and more plentiful flat grain.
Unlike vertical grain, flat grain is prone to splintering, pealing, warping and showing signs of premature wear and tear. Vertical grain is much more durable, much more comfortable to sit on, and will last up to twice as long!
(http://www.rhtubs.com/images/woodgrain1.gif)
There are many different grades of wood, almost all of which can be used for a hot tub. However, different grades of wood will have vastly different effects on the life span, stability, durability, and comfort of the hot tub.
Various parts of a tree have different resistance to decay. The outer part of a tree, generally lighter in color, is called sap wood and is the newest growth. It has not had the necessary time to develop the necessary natural decay resistance and under no circumstances should it be used in a hot tub. Only the heartwood from the center of the tree possesses the natural decay resistant properties necessary for a quality traditional wooden hot tub.
Knots and wavy grain are also something to be completely avoided. Knots can be uncomfortable to sit on or lean against, and are also prone to leaking. Wavy grain can lead to unusually warping, cracking and eventual leaking.
(http://www.rhtubs.com/images/cross-section.gif)
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Actually, I could make one of those too......
LOL... I'm sure you could! ::) ;)
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About $20 in either PVC or electrical conduit and you can make something similar to a Cover Butler.
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About $20 in either PVC or electrical conduit and you can make something similar to a Cover Butler.
Just not many people do...
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Thanks Doc... ;)
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It's still just a barrel.
The grain of the wood has many different properties or effects on the over all hot tub. The tightness of the grain, or number of growth rings indicates how slowly or fast a tree has grown. Trees that get less sunlight and\or less water grow more slowly.
(http://www.rhtubs.com/images/redwood-cedar.jpg)
In the picture above, the top piece of wood is from one of our hot tubs, while the bottom is from a "competitors" (which by the way rotted out and was replaced after only 2 years). Slower growing wood with tighter grain has more, much more rot resistance. It's also smoother to the touch.
Vertical grain wood (the opposite of your cabinets is harder to come by. Less than 25% of wood milled is "vertical grain", making it considerable more expensive (up to twice the cost). However, vertical grain wood is infinitely more desirable than the cheaper and more plentiful flat grain.
Unlike vertical grain, flat grain is prone to splintering, pealing, warping and showing signs of premature wear and tear. Vertical grain is much more durable, much more comfortable to sit on, and will last up to twice as long!
(http://www.rhtubs.com/images/woodgrain1.gif)
There are many different grades of wood, almost all of which can be used for a hot tub. However, different grades of wood will have vastly different effects on the life span, stability, durability, and comfort of the hot tub.
Various parts of a tree have different resistance to decay. The outer part of a tree, generally lighter in color, is called sap wood and is the newest growth. It has not had the necessary time to develop the necessary natural decay resistance and under no circumstances should it be used in a hot tub. Only the heartwood from the center of the tree possesses the natural decay resistant properties necessary for a quality traditional wooden hot tub.
Knots and wavy grain are also something to be completely avoided. Knots can be uncomfortable to sit on or lean against, and are also prone to leaking. Wavy grain can lead to unusually warping, cracking and eventual leaking.
(http://www.rhtubs.com/images/cross-section.gif)
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And a Rolls Royce is just a car ;)
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It's still just a barrel.
Sir, what is up your arse? Yes, it's wood and looks like a giant barrel and yes I will have nearly $7k invested in it when the cedar decking is complete. But I like it and it's my money. I paid cash for it and I will probably buy a modern acrylic spa for the mountain house since I won't be there that often to monitor it. I've also owned three Lotus sports cars which were just fiberglass on wheels and yes, they are not a good investment and every one had some little PITA issues, but again, I enjoyed the hell out of them.
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Sir, what is up your arse? Yes, it's wood and looks like a giant barrel and yes I will have nearly $7k invested in it when the cedar decking is complete. But I like it and it's my money. I paid cash for it and I will probably buy a modern acrylic spa for the mountain house since I won't be there that often to monitor it. I've also owned three Lotus sports cars which were just fiberglass on wheels and yes, they are not a good investment and every one had some little PITA issues, but again, I enjoyed the hell out of them.
This has been a great topic for wood tub fans. I've often thought that if I had a cabin in the mountains that I would install one for the nostalgia. In fact, I have a tipi on 35 acres and am considering putting one there with a pumpless wood or gas heater. No jets just hot water soak.
Doc, thanks for pointing out the wood....so often people have no clue about the quality differences in cut and grain.
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stuart, if you do ever decide to go with a wooden hot tub with a wood fired heater, let me know. You know I always give you a great deal, and we now offer a wood fired hot tub system. It can be something as simple and basic with just the heater, or you could outfit it with a small recirculation system for filtration, or even do a fully jetted system.
http://www.rhtubs.com/chofu.htm
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It's still just a barrel.
WTF does that mean besides NOTHING? :-? If you can't appreciate the beauty of the product and only see a hot tub as just a standard piece of acrylic with 50 holes in it, then that's unfortunate for you.
Remember what your Mommy said about not having anything nice to say... ::)
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I love the looks of wood and if I had the right house/cabin I would have one sitting right next to our Barrel sauna, what a pair that would be! Good old fashioned therapy. You could always get one of those fancy showers to get jet therapy if needed.
Enjoy your hot tub,make sure to post pics when done!
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I just got out from the first soak about 5min ago. I think it may be too hot...the control panel says 103 (I set it for 102) but a floating digital thermometer says 109 :o I still need to get the pH up some as well as CH. I also still need to build the surround.
Hillbilly Hot Tub, those cedar showers are pretty nice. I actually thought about getting one from Callaway Woodworks for our mountain house. I was thinking about a walk-in shower done in tile or something water proof with the cedar shower inserted into that. The idea would be for the cedar to be the only visible part.
BTW, I smell like cedar. I guess it's the tannins leaching ointo the water. I won't have to worry about moths for a while ;)
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WTF does that mean besides NOTHING? :-? If you can't appreciate the beauty of the product and only see a hot tub as just a standard piece of acrylic with 50 holes in it, then that's unfortunate for you.
Remember what your Mommy said about not having anything nice to say... ::)
Well said Steve. Acrylic tubs are great and are loaded with cool features. I think every post that guy made was negative.
Dr Spa, I also appreciate your input on grades of wood. BTW, the retail operation at rhtubs.com has been great. I bought a few things and the service and followup was 1st rate.
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I just got out from the first soak about 5min ago. I think it may be too hot...the control panel says 103 (I set it for 102) but a floating digital thermometer says 109 :o
Where is the temperature sensor located? It could be that the sensor is not close enough to the tub - or that the tub sits and the cool water goes to the bottom. If the unit is pulling in cooler water (until the tub gets stirred up a bit) then it may be trying to heat that cooler water up to your set point. You may want to increase the number of filter cycles, and simply set the tub lower. It really doesn't matter what the number on the display says as long as the tub is at the temp you like.
8-)
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My sensor is a thermoprobe which inserts into a thermowell. That is located just below the bottom of the seating, so it is lower in the tub. I'm going to pick up a different floating thermometer today and compare to the other floating thermometer and the probe.
We have a Jacuzzi jetted tub in our master bath and I got into it about a week ago at 106 and that definitely felt hotter than the hot tub. So maybe the hot tub readout is more accurate than the floating thermometer.
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Generally speaking, floating thermometers make money for pool/spa dealers twice. Once when they sell them and once when they charge for a service call for a 'malfunctioning' tub... which is why I don't sell them. You said it was a digital floating thermo, so I gave it a pass, but floating thermometers in general are not very dependable. The worst ones are the type with a glass tube fastened to a printed card. The glass comes loose, slides up or down the scale, and then I get the call.
I'm impressed that the temp sensor is in the tub as yours is - that is the best way to do things, especially on a large-volume tub like a wood tub. If it is off in the equipment you can have a lot of problems unless you have a constant circulation pump.
I would trust the digital equipment - and of course - judge by testing first with your hand, then gauge by comfort in the tub. I have sold tubs for a long time now, and I have had many people tell me they like the tub at 105 or more. Gotta have it. We set up their new spa and talk to them later and they find that a tub at an honest 102 is all they need or want. Some will report 104 does more to relax muscles if they are pushing it real hard in some physical activity - but they will also admit that with the temp that high they can't sit in the tub for more than 5 - 10 minutes.
8-)
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Actually, I could make one of those too......
Ah, but what is the value of your time? If you make things as a hobby and enjoy it, go for it. If you are making them to save money and you don't factor in your time, you are fooling yourself. ;D
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Thanks Chas,
Yes, it does really have a thermowell. So far, I'm very impressed with the thought that went into this tub. I don't think I mentioned earlier that once it heated up, the leaks sealed. The floating thermometer in question was digital, but again, I don't know if it is accurate.
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Well, I can now report that I'm no plumber ;D I had a few drips where the spa flex hose connections were made. This tub has a 4hp 2spd pump and during a soak with the jets on high, one of those leaks got bigger. So I drained the tub last night and made the repairs today. It was barely 50F all day long around here, so it wasn't easy. It will be 30 tonight here in Georgia, but it won't be ready for soaking. I had planned to empty the tub next weekend because the tannins had turned to water into tea. I'm going to keep the temp on low for a day or two until I know that all my plumbing connections are solid. Then I'll crank it back up to 102.
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I'm sorry about the seemingly negative comments. I guess I'll never understand.
Well said Steve. Acrylic tubs are great and are loaded with cool features. I think every post that guy made was negative.
Dr Spa, I also appreciate your input on grades of wood. BTW, the retail operation at rhtubs.com has been great. I bought a few things and the service and followup was 1st rate.
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Wrapped it all up today - I filled it last week and then the customer went away on vacation for a week. I went up to his house and filled it back up every day as it soaked and swelled up. It is right up the street from my house, so I didn't mind going up and enjoying the view every day for him.
When he got home, it was full and he heated it. That helped the last of the leaks stop.
He balanced the water, and jumped in with a plastic milk crate and some wood slats to find out how high he wanted me to set the seats. Then he drained it and I got there this afternoon to sand the top, rout the edges, vac it all out, and install the benches.
I left the water running - he'll be home later and said that was fine - so we're all done!
He paid the bill last week before he went on vacation, and gave us a bunch of avocados as a tip. Very nice.
(http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v362/248/76/1434776229/n1434776229_30107276_5367.jpg)
(http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v362/248/76/1434776229/n1434776229_30107279_6216.jpg)
Once I got a couple inches over the suction fittings, I fired up the pump. Both jets jumped to life, so we're all set. He wanted just the two jets - with a one HP pump, they do fine.
8-)
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It came out very nice, excellent work. It's looks a lot nicer than it did right out of the crates, which may be why I had such a hard time swallowing the cost of a wooden tub.
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Well, the quality of the wood was amazing! I sold the tub itself for $3995 - add freight, the install, a couple of change orders for various things, reused his benches and cover - total deal was less than five grand. He said he wished he had used me to do the tub at his beach house. :(
8-)
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Very nice Chas! My wife and I used ours for 30mins tonight. I took a couple of night shots:
This is with all the jets off looking down into the tub with just the LED lights on. I used my Nikon D50 in auto mode and they came out pretty good.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0190.jpg)
This photo is looking straight up through the pergola at the sky:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/limulus/DSC_0200.jpg)
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Chas.......where's that brochure quality picture, with the tub full of water, a killer view in the background, and no garden hoses laying around ? ;)
(http://www.rhtubs.com/images/hottubs/hottub3.jpg)
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Chas.......where's that brochure quality picture, with the tub full of water, a killer view in the background, and no garden hoses laying around ?
I'll work on it. The deck is 30 years old, or at least half of it is. The only two places to stand - other than on the deck next to the tub - are narrow decks which run along two sides of the tub.
However, the good news is that I am going to go back up in the next few days and I plan to bring my real camera, and I'm going to try to be there around sunset. So I'll see what I can do for ya!!
Awesome tub - great service - thanks!!
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So Chas, what method of sanitation is your client going to use on this tub? So far, Nature 2 with 2tsp of dichlor before and after soaking has worked with ours. I also turned on the ionizer.
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He has a floater with bromine tabs. I'm going to suggest he use Brilliance.
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Hey Chas, I expect Dr Spa to have something to say about that. He is not pro-bromine in wood tubs. Callaway, my manufacturer also did not recommend bromine. From all I've read, Bromine is the worst choice for wood. That's why I went with the Nature 2 low chlorine recipe. My tub also came with an ionizer. On the other hand, there are two cedar tub manufactures that sell bromine for their tubs. I'd love to use a floating bromine system just for the simplicity.
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Chas.......where's that brochure quality picture, with the tub full of water, a killer view in the background, and no garden hoses laying around ? ;)
(http://www.rhtubs.com/images/hottubs/hottub3.jpg)
Nothing like a wood tub. Absolutely beautififul.......
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Chas, during the break-in period of this tub are you experiencing problems keeping pH up? Our tub is still leaching tannic acid which I find very difficult to adjust for long.
I was told that this is normal during the break-in. I've used the tub several times, but have to adjust pH every time. The water is now a nice tea color again and I'm going to drain it Thurs evening or Fri morning. Since the weekend is over I've turned off the heat and will continue to keep it chlorinated which helps with the neutralization.
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He has a floater with bromine tabs. I'm going to suggest he use Brilliance.
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Hello Chas,
It has been a while and I wonder if you are still performing the maintenance on this tub? I'm mainly curious about the sanitation method your customer uses. Is he still using a floater?
I've been using Nature 2 and have been really happy with it. I started out using the dichlor recipe referred to in the manual and not using MPS. However, the dichlor just caused the pH to drop and after about two weeks, the tannins would turn the water the color of tea and the cya would be too high. It didn't hurt anything other than pH, but I wanted clear water. I wound up changing water every two months which wasn't so bad. Now, I use the N2 with MPS and my water has remained clear. I've had a much easier time maintaining TA and pH but still find the need to run some air. I do still use the electronic ionizer, but I keep it at a low setting since we use the N2.
A tried and true method using a floater would be the ultimate. But I don't want the chemicals to eat away the tub.
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Well I know that most manufacturers don't like to see people using floaters in tubs, especially with Tri-Chlor tablets in them. But that is what this customer has used, and this is the third tub in this same location, going back thirty years. He figures that if the tub has to be replaced a couple of years earlier then so be it, he wants the ease of doing things the way he is used to doing them.
I can't argue with that, but I did try...
The tub is doing well, and as far as I know they are using it every night.
8-)
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Thanks for the reply. If I knew I could get 10yrs and have less maintenance, I'd probably do the same. I'll keep using the N2 and MPS for now.