Hot Tub Forum
Original => Hot Tub Forum => Topic started by: searchinginfl on February 07, 2008, 03:40:35 pm
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Since I haven't figured out how to use my Taylor test kit yet, I just tested my water with a strip. It measured really high (like 10ppm) total chlorine, but NO free chlorine. What does this mean? Is all my chlorine being used?
I added mps instead of my daily chlorine, but is there something I should be doing?
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Total chlorine is free chlorine + combined chlorine, so based on your readings you have a combined chlorine of 10PPM so you need to shock your tub.
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Since I haven't figured out how to use my Taylor test kit yet, I just tested my water with a strip. It measured really high (like 10ppm) total chlorine, but NO free chlorine. What does this mean? Is all my chlorine being used?
I added mps instead of my daily chlorine, but is there something I should be doing?
My guess is that the mps you added is registering as TC on your strip? Either that or there's so much FC present in the water that it's bleaching your strip. When's the last time you added chlorine and mps, and how much?
I can walk you through the Taylor chlorine test if you'd like? What kit did you get?
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10 ppm combined chlorine is extreme. I think Chad may be right on.
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I put my regular dose of chlorine in 2 days ago. About a tablespoon for a 500 gal tub. I added the mps AFTER I saw the TC of about 10.
I bought the Taylor k2005, and have not had a chance to really sit w/it and read instructions etc. It's a big book!
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Oh, and I have been sick, so I haven't gone in all week, but I still have added dichlor about every 36 hours.
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I'm sorry to hear that you're under the weather, searchinginfl.
What kind of mps do you have and how much do you use in a typical week?
The Taylor chlorine test is really rather simple. You should have 3 reagents labeled R-0001, R-0002, R-0003. Fill the side of the comparator-(http:// http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r165/tileman_photos/P031007.jpg?t=1202443470) marked Cl Br to the fill line with your fill water. Add 5 drops of R-0001 and R-0002. Put the cap on and invert in order for the drops to mix. This takes a few seconds. Turn right side up and record the result as FC. Remove cap and add 5 drops of the R-0003 to the mix. Cap and invert again. Record result as TC. Subtract the FC from the TC and record as CC. TC - FC = CC. That's it! :)
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It's your MPS.
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Actually, i am realizing now, it is my strips!!!! I had 2 kinds of strips, and was using the porpoise strips which measure TC, FC, TA, PH and hardness. I just used the taylor kit (thanks chad!)
I got FC:2.5
TC:4
so my CC is 1.5, right?
Also my PH was below 7, my TA was abt 70, and my cya was between 60 & 70.
Then I used my porpoise strips. It showed TC at about 5 and NO FC!!!!
Then I used aquachek strips which just check free chlorine, ph, ta,and stabilizer. My ph showed about 7, FC about 1.5-2, TA about 75, and stabilizer about 80. I think I will throw out the porpoise strips. The aquachek was pretty consistent w/the taylor, right?
Tiny, the readings that started this post were from NOT adding mps for at least a week. I added after I got that reading.
So, with the readings the way they are now, assuming I used the Taylor kit correctly, do I just leave well enough alone? I will not go in until tomorrow. Should I add ph up? Last weekend, the pool store analyzed my water and my ph was high, but I did not use ph down. Should I add more dichlor before going in tomorrow?
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searchinginfl,
Ivie, actually with a CC level as high as yours, you should shock your tub. Since you said your tub is 500 gal, I would add about 6 tablespoons of MPS and it should clear out the CC. Your FC is fine where its at, pH and ALK could both come up a little.
Shock first, add MPS and let jets run on full for about a 1/2 hour with your cover open
Add a couple of teaspoons on ALK up and your pH should rise with it.
Wash your filters in about 48 hours after add MPS.
Hope you feel better :)
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searchinginfl,
Ivie, actually with a CC level as high as yours, you should shock your tub. Since you said your tub is 500 gal, I would add about 6 tablespoons of MPS and it should clear out the CC. Your FC is fine where its at, pH and ALK could both come up a little.
Shock first, add MPS and let jets run on full for about a 1/2 hour with your cover open
Add a couple of teaspoons on ALK up and your pH should rise with it.
Wash your filters in about 48 hours after add MPS.
Hope you feel better :)
Are you talking about the 1.5 cc? That's high?
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Are you talking about the 1.5 cc? That's high?
Yep, thats high. I normally shock when CC reaches about .5
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I put my regular dose of chlorine in 2 days ago. About a tablespoon for a 500 gal tub. I added the mps AFTER I saw the TC of about 10.
I bought the Taylor k2005, and have not had a chance to really sit w/it and read instructions etc. It's a big book!
1 tablespoon of dichlor is a lot for a 500 gal tub as a regular dose!
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Searchinginfl,
Another option would be to add a 15ppm dose of dichlor instead of the mps shock dose. As much as you use mps it might better for your tub as it seems like you haven't given your tub a superchlorination in awhile(ever?). The only downfall is that you probably won't be able to soak for 24 hrs.
It's always good to raise your FC to a higher than normal level every once in awhile.
*Btw, just to be extra cautious it might be best to retest your levels when your FC gets down around 1 ppm to ensure the most accurate readings. FWIW, I never check any of my levels unless my FC is at or below 1ppm.
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1 tablespoon of dichlor is a lot for a 500 gal tub as a regular dose!
Not really. One TBS is about a 4ppm dose for 500 gallon tub.
Here's a pretty accurate formula -
Gallons in tub x desired ppm x .000128 / percentage of available chlorine in your dichlor product = amount to add in ounces.
500 x 4 x .000128 / .55 = .47 ounces or just under 1 TBS
3 tsp in a TBS
2 TBS in an ounce
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Not really. One TBS would bring 500 gallons with a starting FC of 0ppm to just over 4ppm.
Here's a pretty accurate formula -
Gallons of tub x desired ppm x .000128 / percentage of available chlorine in your dichlor product = amount to add in ounces.
500 x 4 x .000128 / .55 = .47 ounces or just under 1 TBS
3 tsp in a TBS
2 TBS in an ounce
Plus, I guess a 500 gal tub is pretty big! Thanks for the formula...had seen it before, but was using it for a lower ppm, say of 3 and a smaller tub, by far.
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I didn't want to shock, because I use the tub mostly on weekends, and I don't want to ruin the weekend. I just tested again, (I did nothing since yesterday).
My CC is now .5, PH still below or around 7, and TA at 60. Can I go in?
Should I add alkalinity increaser or ph increaser? In a 500 gallon tub, what should I add after we soak? (toddler will be in with me). I have brilliance mps, and dichlor. Dealer tells me too add cap of mps after each soak, cap of dichlor weekly. I add a tbl. dichlor like every 36 hours, and about 2-3 tbl. mps weekly. I super chlorinated about 3 times in the last 2 months, mostly because I was going away. I also have a frog and 24 hour ozone.
What would I do without this board? I love you guys, I can't imagine enjoying the tub without the info here. (plus, I would have bought a tub I wouldn't have liked, because I would never have even known to wet test).
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The fear of soaking in chlorine is uncalled for. The "official" way to soak is to soak in at least 3 PPM chlorine. Having CC of 0.5 is not that bad. Using 6 PPM chlorine will burn up that CC or you can use MPS.
Get rid of the capfuls and use those measuring spoons. Get used to using actual measuring devices - makes life and dosing much easier. In my MPS it says to use x oz per 250 gallons - a cup is 8 oz.
I use 2 teaspoons to get 3 PPM in a 400 gallon tub, I add 1 extra per person up to 4 teaspoons for my family of 4. Use 3 for yourself and more for adiition people.
As far as PH and alkalinity, you can add PH increaser first then alkalinity increaser. Once your done with these chems - buy baking soda. I find it raises both.
Finally, don't micromanage the water.
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Thanks Vinny, my question is, when you say 3ppm chlorine is that Total chlorine, or free chlorine?
I have been adding a tablespoon dichlor after each soak, so that seems to be right on.
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I didn't want to shock, because I use the tub mostly on weekends, and I don't want to ruin the weekend. I just tested again, (I did nothing since yesterday).
My CC is now .5, PH still below or around 7, and TA at 60. Can I go in?
Should I add alkalinity increaser or ph increaser? In a 500 gallon tub, what should I add after we soak? (toddler will be in with me). I have brilliance mps, and dichlor. Dealer tells me too add cap of mps after each soak, cap of dichlor weekly. I add a tbl. dichlor like every 36 hours, and about 2-3 tbl. mps weekly. I super chlorinated about 3 times in the last 2 months, mostly because I was going away. I also have a frog and 24 hour ozone.
What would I do without this board? I love you guys, I can't imagine enjoying the tub without the info here. (plus, I would have bought a tub I wouldn't have liked, because I would never have even known to wet test).
I'd back off a bit on the mps, since you have ozone and a mineral cartidge. Adding 2-3 tsp of dichlor after every soak should be all you need besides a good shock with either mps or dichlor every 7-10 days(since you have a Taylor now, just test for CC every weekend and dose accordingly).
As far as adjusting your pH and Alk, Taylor states to add just under 1 TBS of baking soda(sodium bicarbonate) to increase alkalinity 20ppm for every 100 gallons. Since baking soda has a pH of about 8.2 it will raise your pH as well.
With your current levels, I'd start by adding 5 TBS of Baking Soda, turn pumps on to thouroughly mix the water. I wait atleast a couple of hours and then test again. If more is needed, dose accordingly. Just make sure not to get in a hurry as sometimes it takes awhile for the levels to get where they want to go. Fwiw, sometimes I'll wait until the next day to add my second dose of increaser, to minimize the chances of overdosing.
You can definetly go for a soak with your current levels but it might be easier to adjust them if you held off soaking for awhile. The aggitation of the water will skew your readings.
So your CC is just .5 now eh? It looks like letting your FC drop did help in providing more accurate readings. All you need now is a dose of dichlor greater than 5ppm and your set. To be on the safe side I'd add 7+ppm just to be extra certain you're reaching breakpoint.
Edit: It looks like Vinny beat me to it again. :'(
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We are looking for free chlorine.
Chad, the baking soda thing is not 100% true although it seems to work in my tub and doesn't work in my pool.
PH increaser tends to move the PH up and doesn't move alkalinity that much and alkalinity increaser does the opposite. For my pool I use borax to increase the PH and baking soda to raise the alkalinity. It doesn't matter how much baking soda I use PH doesn't budge. In my spa they go up together when I use baking soda. I did once use borax in my tub only because I couldn't get to the store to get baking soda.
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Chad, the baking soda thing is not 100% true although it seems to work in my tub
It works in mine as well. I've never had to add soda ash and my pH has been as low as 6.8 before. Weird :-/
Btw, do agree that searchinginfl should raise their alk into the ideal range first and then see where the pH goes. Then adjust pH accordingly. That's what I've always done with great success but like me and you both know, no two people's water react in the exact same way. My pH will just keep falling with a alk of 60 ppm. It's not until I get it into the 90-100ppm range, that my pH starts to stabilize.
On a side note, After my last refill I had a starting alk of 90ppm and a pH of 8.2 straight out the tap. I didn't add anything to water besides a 10 ppm dose of dichlor and the next day my pH was 7.8 and alk was the same. That was the first time I left my water alone and tried to use a super dose of dichlor to lower my pH and it worked. My water has since been stabilized at 7.6 and 90. Although my pH is a little higher than I usually keep it(do to it's decreasing effectiveness to the chlorine), I know she'll come down eventually. Pretty cool to have such well balanced city water.
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So your CC is just .5 now eh? It looks like letting your FC drop did help in providing more accurate readings. All you need now is a dose of dichlor greater than 5ppm and your set. To be on the safe side I'd add 7+ppm just to be extra certain you're reaching breakpoint.
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The only way to really get an accurate reading is waiting until the FC = 0 or close to it. Trying to figure out CC when the chlorine is 2 or 3 is impossible.
Chad, my water chemistry knowledge comes from the original pool website that chemgeek used to post in. I was there before he started to post and I don't post too often on pool websites anymore. Actually, I would love to learn whatever he is teaching but I really can't get past a few people who attempt to answer questions but don't have the knowledge behind it. I was fortunate to find Doc's site when Vermonter was posting a lot and by reading what he said, asking questions and researching things I was able to learn something. For my pool I tend to get the alkalinity in line first then get the PH in line - that was the way I learned from that site. This is opposite of what is normally said. Both ways seem to work and whatever works for an individual is the best.
You are right everyones water is different! It seems less so in pools.
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Out of the tap my alkalinity and ph are so low you can't get a reading. It took about a pound of alkalinity increase to get it in the right range. Since I have to add water every week (my 10 year old likes to shoot the waterfall out of the tub), my alk and ph are low again.
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The only way to really get an accurate reading is waiting until the FC = 0 or close to it. Trying to figure out CC when the chlorine is 2 or 3 is impossible.
Chad, my water chemistry knowledge comes from the original pool website that chemgeek used to post in. I was there before he started to post and I don't post too often on pool websites anymore. Actually, I would love to learn whatever he is teaching but I really can't get past a few people who attempt to answer questions but don't have the knowledge behind it. I was fortunate to find Doc's site when Vermonter was posting a lot and by reading what he said, asking questions and researching things I was able to learn something. For my pool I tend to get the alkalinity in line first then get the PH in line - that was the way I learned from that site. This is opposite of what is normally said. Both ways seem to work and whatever works for an individual is the best.
You are right everyones water is different! It seems less so in pools.
Vinny, chemgeek posts over at the hot tub water chemistry section of the poolandspaforum. It isn't anywhere near as biased as the old pool forum. Since he has been posting there, that forum has impoved. It used to be nuts over there with the Costco battles.
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Are any of the other pool forum posters posting as well? I have not been too happy with the responses I have received from some of the old regulars from the pool forum. I truely believe that they have misinformation in their head.
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Vinny, chemgeek posts over at the hot tub water chemistry section of the poolandspaforum. It isn't anywhere near as biased as the old pool forum. Since he has been posting there, that forum has impoved. It used to be nuts over there with the Costco battles.
I went over to poolandspaforum and it looks like no one posted since March 2007 or so. This was the forum that Chas started and I did register for it.I see chemgeeks name on a thread post but I thought we were talking more recent activity. Maybe I went to the wrong place!
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I went over to poolandspaforum and it looks like no one posted since March 2007 or so. This was the forum that Chas started and I did register for it.I see chemgeeks name on a thread post but I thought we were talking more recent activity. Maybe I went to the wrong place!
No...its www.poolspaforum.com. Its the old spasearch forum...remember when you had to wait a day or more to see your post. A lot of posters here are there. Chas, Doc and Tom are moderators there. Waterbear from the old poolforum also post there once in a while. Most of the old pool forum folks are at troublefeepools. Its a little cultish. I stay away.
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The address is: http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showforum=7
If you go to the main screen, I don't know why it shows March, I thought that was my computer. There are as many postings there as here, but there is a lot more arguing and agendas, but still some great information. A lot of the same people post in both Forums. A lot of arguing about big box store spas goes on there. (Costco/Keys/Infinity.....)
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Thanks!
I went to pool and spa forum not pool spa forum. I went to the latter and I found it.
Of course my wife won't thank you ... that's even more time I'll do nothing around the house. ;D
Honestly, I'll read up there but I may not post or if I do post not much. I think 2 forums are enough (Doc's and here). I've given up arguing over stupid things, my questioning people may sound like arguing but I really want to push the knowledge envelope. People sound knowledgeable until asked really direct and higher level questions - Vermonter and Chemgeek are people with that type of higher level knowledge.
I believe some people are giving out wrong info on other sites. I've asked over at a pool forum about MPS and was told MPS will prevent chloramines from forming. Everything I read says it breaks the chloramines (this is called shocking). I did have a problem with my pool and asked for help. They said get your chlorine to 15 PPM and leave it there for a few days. When I asked why can't it drop to 8 PPM (still high) I was considered a PITA. I am but I want the knowledge. BTW, it did work keeping it at 15 for a few days but I don't know why. Some of the posters say dichlor is bad - not true. When I questioned them about it - nothing intelligent came out IMO.
Maybe I should post there and see if I can get further in my answers ...
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That forum is big on the use of bleach (chemgeek) vs. dichlor.
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That forum is big on the use of bleach (chemgeek) vs. dichlor.
Does chemgeek post over here at all under a different name? Tileman, I think you need to think about opening your own spa store in your area.
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Tileman, I think you need to think about opening your own spa store in your area.
How come, Gombo?
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How come, Gombo?
You seem very passionate about spas. I think you would make a good dealer.
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I believe some people are giving out wrong info on other sites. I've asked over at a pool forum about MPS and was told MPS will prevent chloramines from forming. Everything I read says it breaks the chloramines (this is called shocking).
Actually, MPS does a better job at oxidizing before chloramines form according to Dupont. Regular use of MPS will keep combined chlorine from forming. MPS does not do as well as superchlorination at destroying existing chloramines. MPS weekly to maintain....superchlorinate when you have a problem.
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I plan on shocking tonight. How much MPS or chlorine should you use in a 500 gal tub for a shock dose?
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Actually, MPS does a better job at oxidizing before chloramines form according to Dupont. Regular use of MPS will keep combined chlorine from forming. MPS does not do as well as superchlorination at destroying existing chloramines. MPS weekly to maintain....superchlorinate when you have a problem.
Where did you find this info? I looked on the Dupont website and didn't find anything associated with what you are saying. This was told to me by waterbear at TFP and I looked and couldn't find anything to prove or disprove it. Everything I know is to use MPS weekly to break up the chloromines not prevent them.
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Where did you find this info? I looked on the Dupont website and didn't find anything associated with what you are saying. This was told to me by waterbear at TFP and I looked and couldn't find anything to prove or disprove it. Everything I know is to use MPS weekly to break up the chloromines not prevent them.
Check out this site.
http://www.dupont.com/oxone/faq.html#a1
Read down to Oxone and chlorine #8 specifically explains MPS preventing chloriamines.
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I plan on shocking tonight. How much MPS or chlorine should you use in a 500 gal tub for a shock dose?
To use MPS look at the bottle and it will tell you how much. There's 2 types of MPS - straight and buffered, you use less of the straight kind than you do the buffered. I have a 400 gallon tub, use straight MPS and put in 1/2 cup (4 oz).
As far as chlorine, it all depends on the combined chlorine (CC) readings you have. If it is below 0.5 PPM then a "shock" of 5 PPM free chlorine (FC) is all you need. You can add 2 more teaspoons if you want to superdisinfect a little more. The formula for shocking (breakpoint chlorination) is FC = at least 10x CC reading.
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To use MPS look at the bottle and it will tell you how much. There's 2 types of MPS - straight and buffered, you use less of the straight kind than you do the buffered. I have a 400 gallon tub, use straight MPS and put in 1/2 cup (4 oz).
As far as chlorine, it all depends on the combined chlorine (CC) readings you have. If it is below 0.5 PPM then a "shock" of 5 PPM free chlorine (FC) is all you need. You can add 2 more teaspoons if you want to superdisinfect a little more. The formula for shocking (breakpoint chlorination) is FC = at least 10x CC reading.
The MPS I use is also non buffered, but the bottle says to add 1.75 tablespoons for my 485 gallon spa.
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I don't know whether mine is buffered or not. (Brilliance oxidizer). It says 2 oz for 250 gal, so I just put in 1/2 cup. I haven't added dichlor in a few days because my CC was so high. Should I be adding any of that as well? Won't I get false readings from the mps?
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Check out this site.
http://www.dupont.com/oxone/faq.html#a1
Read down to Oxone and chlorine #8 specifically explains MPS preventing chloriamines.
Thanks Tony,
After posting that question I went back to the Dupont Oxone site and honestly even though it says prevents chloramines I don't know how. I am thinking that 15 minute "stay out of the water" is the amount of time that MPS stays fairly active. I would also agree that it probably stays in the water for another 24 hours or so just like chlorine. But if I use MPS on Sunday night and go in the tub all week and use chlorine I can't see it preventing chloramines. I could see if it said to add it after soaking then add chlorine.
I'm thinking that website is using marketing to give Oxone some advantage over chlorine. I think it is trying to lure people by using the word 'prevents'. Adding chlorine before or after soaking will give you chloramines and we all should shock on a weekly basis. I also find it interesting how that website says how difficult it is to calculate breakpoint chlorination at times, I never seem to have a problem. I do know it's oxidizing power is excellent. I use it as a conventional shock and it does break up the CC and boy does it remove gunk in the water.
Have you seen that MPS prevent chlormines? Have you tested your spa after 1 week and had 0 PPM CC after using MPS a week before? What about when just using chlorine? I ask because you seem to use your spa a lot more than I do and it would be interesting (at least to me) to see if once chloramines are gone from the tub if using MPS prevents them.
Thanks Again!
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I don't know whether mine is buffered or not. (Brilliance oxidizer). It says 2 oz for 250 gal, so I just put in 1/2 cup. I haven't added dichlor in a few days because my CC was so high. Should I be adding any of that as well? Won't I get false readings from the mps?
I would run the 20 minute cycle with MPS and then run another short cycle (5 minute) with chlorine at 3 PPM or more chlorine (don't shock with chlorine). My tub tends to go bad in a few days without chlorine so I am overly sensitive about making sure chlorine is in the tub.
Yes, you will get false CC readings with MPS.
I gave you some wrong info, I use straight and I use 2 oz per 500 gallons. I think you may have buffered MPS.
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You seem very passionate about spas. I think you would make a good dealer.
Thanks for compliment Gombo. Maybe Term could use an extra gopher and then if things go well, maybe I'll get promoted to Supervisor for his Hydrotherepy Technicians.
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Where did you find this info? I looked on the Dupont website and didn't find anything associated with what you are saying. This was told to me by waterbear at TFP and I looked and couldn't find anything to prove or disprove it. Everything I know is to use MPS weekly to break up the chloromines not prevent them.
Vinny, here's a thread started by Chemgeek that might be of some help
http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=9952&st=0&p=41821&#entry41821
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I shocked last night with mps and added a tablespoon of dichlor (followed instructions of 1 1/2 tsp per 250 gal).
When do I test again? I just tested, and it was way over what the taylor kit reads (super hot pink).
When is it safe to enter again?
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1 tablespoon in a 500 gallon tub should yield around 5 PPM chlorine and it should be somewhat disappated by now. The MPS should only be messing up the CC readings. Is it a Taylor K-2005 kit? And you aren't reading the TC reading just the FC reading.
If you are reading the FC then the only question I have is - does your chlorine tend to linger for a very time? I ask this only because I have had chlorine last a long time due to "chlorine lock" and I had to force it down a few times. Chlorine should be close to 0 in 24 hours if regular doses are done.
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Vinny, here's a thread started by Chemgeek that might be of some help
http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=9952&st=0&p=41821&#entry41821
Thanks Chad!
Dupont wants us to use an aweful lot of MPS! I guess using MPS for a weekly shock doesn't work the way they say it does. It looks as though a weekly shock doesn't control chloramines but using it daily will burn up the crud that causes chloramines. I am still assuming that MPS will break that chloramine bond as chemgeek doesn't address that in that thread but says that using weekly has a partial effect.
Considering that most of the time for my water I am running about a 0.5 PPM CC reading I don't see the need to either use MPS daily or worry about not breaking the chloramine bond either with MPS or chlorine. I guess my two problems with the whole MPS thing is the quantity of product vs chlorine and the non sanitizer that MPS is. I guess an enhanced chlorine product with both may be a great thing but I've used it and it wasn't anything special.
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1 tablespoon in a 500 gallon tub should yield around 5 PPM chlorine and it should be somewhat disappated by now. The MPS should only be messing up the CC readings. Is it a Taylor K-2005 kit? And you aren't reading the TC reading just the FC reading.
If you are reading the FC then the only question I have is - does your chlorine tend to linger for a very time? I ask this only because I have had chlorine last a long time due to "chlorine lock" and I had to force it down a few times. Chlorine should be close to 0 in 24 hours if regular doses are done.
I read the FC first, and it was higher than the color scale goes in the taylor k-2005, obviously, when I added the drops to measure TC it was too high as well (though it didn't seem to change much)
Only in the past week has my chlorine seemed to last a long time. It was not 24 hours when I tested, more like 16, and I left the cover half open for a few more hours today. I will test again tomorrow. How do you stop chlorine lock if this is the case?
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Vinny, I use 1.5 tablespoons of non buffered MPS per week (per instructions on bottle) and it has kept away all combined chlorine. I, too, have used non chlorine shock in the conventional shock manner and it has worked well. I would shock whenever I registered any combined chlorine which would normally be every other week (that is with ozonator). I started shocking weekly when I disconnected the ozone as a precautionary measure and have been happy with the results.
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Vinny, I use 1.5 tablespoons of non buffered MPS per week (per instructions on bottle) and it has kept away all combined chlorine. I, too, have used non chlorine shock in the conventional shock manner and it has worked well. I would shock whenever I registered any combined chlorine which would normally be every other week (that is with ozonator). I started shocking weekly when I disconnected the ozone as a precautionary measure and have been happy with the results.
What brand of MPS do you use? I have Sea Klear and it states 2 oz per 500 gallons.
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I read the FC first, and it was higher than the color scale goes in the taylor k-2005, obviously, when I added the drops to measure TC it was too high as well (though it didn't seem to change much)
Only in the past week has my chlorine seemed to last a long time. It was not 24 hours when I tested, more like 16, and I left the cover half open for a few more hours today. I will test again tomorrow. How do you stop chlorine lock if this is the case?
I had chlorine lock 2x - the first time I soaked in 20+ PPM chlorine because I wasn't testing. I got in and noticed a higher chlorine smell (vs none) and just assumed a high CC but it was FC!
I used peroxide to lower the chlorine. They also sell chlorine reducer to use Baqua products. If it wasn't that I can't stand the local dealer I would have bought the reducer. Ultimately after bringing down the chlorine and soaking a little while longer it happened again - I just changed out the water and haven't seen it. I don't believe it has to do with stabilizer just something in the water that locks up the chlorine. I'll tell you that it was the cleanest and longest lasting water I ever had! ;D
In 16 hours with 100+ temps the chlorine should have been down somewhat. The fact that it wasn't leads me to believe that you have chlorine lock as well. If you said it was at 3, I would have thought it was because chlorine has done it's job. To find out how much chlorine you really have you can dilute it with tap water (I am assuming that tap water has very little chline). Dilute the water in 1/2 and then multiply the reading by 2. This should give you how much is in. If still too high dilute by 1/4 and multiply by4.
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I only keep my heat at 97, could that be it?
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What brand of MPS do you use? I have Sea Klear and it states 2 oz per 500 gallons.
OK, ready for this ;).....I use Diamond Spa Shock...non-chlorine shock treatment specifically prepared for spa and hot tubs...active ingredients: Potassium Peroxymonosulfate. Mfg. by N. Jonas & Co., Inc, Bensalem, PA 19020. $13.99 for 3 lbs.
Directions for use:
When adding this product for the first time use at the rate of 1-1/2 oz per 500 gallons of spa water to insure thorough oxidation. For residential spas with normal bathing load further treatments at the rate of 3/4 oz. per 500 gals. should be done every week.
I assume this is just stripped down MPS with no additives. I tried this because the Renew I used before needed so much product to get the job done.
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Just tested again. I used the Taylor. The first FC reading was higher than the scale (It was the color of the top ph reading), so I did what you suggested and mixed w/purified water. The 1/2 readings were FC-2.5, TC-5 (meaning FC-5, TC-10ppm)
I decided to test with the 3 different strips I have, just to see. The Aquachek strips which have matched my Taylor results till now read my free chlorine about 3ppm. The porpoise strips that have not been very accurate read my TC at about 7 and my free chlorine less than 3ppm. Then I tested w/an aquachek strip that only checks for MPS. The mps reading was WAY off the chart BRIGHT blue.
I expect 2 days of really crappy weather with a warm front coming through, so I don't expect to use the tub for a few days. Should I let it sit and see what happens, or drain it? BTW, my ph and TA are still reading low. I think I'll run out today to geet the pool store reading since I need to get some ph up, but may not make it there today w/the weather.
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OK, ready for this ;).....I use Diamond Spa Shock...non-chlorine shock treatment specifically prepared for spa and hot tubs...active ingredients: Potassium Peroxymonosulfate. Mfg. by N. Jonas & Co., Inc, Bensalem, PA 19020. $13.99 for 3 lbs.
Directions for use:
When adding this product for the first time use at the rate of 1-1/2 oz per 500 gallons of spa water to insure thorough oxidation. For residential spas with normal bathing load further treatments at the rate of 3/4 oz. per 500 gals. should be done every week.
I assume this is just stripped down MPS with no additives. I tried this because the Renew I used before needed so much product to get the job done.
Do you buy it locally? I found it online at national discount pool supplies and it is a little cheaper there.
Either way - that's a great price!
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Just tested again. I used the Taylor. The first FC reading was higher than the scale (It was the color of the top ph reading), so I did what you suggested and mixed w/purified water. The 1/2 readings were FC-2.5, TC-5 (meaning FC-5, TC-10ppm)
I decided to test with the 3 different strips I have, just to see. The Aquachek strips which have matched my Taylor results till now read my free chlorine about 3ppm. The porpoise strips that have not been very accurate read my TC at about 7 and my free chlorine less than 3ppm. Then I tested w/an aquachek strip that only checks for MPS. The mps reading was WAY off the chart BRIGHT blue.
I expect 2 days of really crappy weather with a warm front coming through, so I don't expect to use the tub for a few days. Should I let it sit and see what happens, or drain it? BTW, my ph and TA are still reading low. I think I'll run out today to geet the pool store reading since I need to get some ph up, but may not make it there today w/the weather.
Don't put anything in the tub until the chlorine gets neutralized. High chlorine readings can mess up all the other readings. Having the store check the water imay be a good idea. Don't buy PH up if both the PH and alkalinity needs to be raised - use baking soda. This will save you $$$, buy 2 lbs and pay $0.99 for store brand.
I'm a little perplexed about the Taylor vs strip difference. Only thing I can think of is that the chlorine may be bleaching out the actual reading. I would trust the Taylor but with the dealer's reading I guess that will tell which is closer.
This is your first spa if I remember correctly. It may be a good idea to not squeeze any more time out of the water. Something that I've read a lot is that water can become unmanageable once it gets to a certain age/TDS level. Fresh water is the best chemical you can add to a spa!
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Vinny-Thanks so much for answering my incessant questions!
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Do you buy it locally? I found it online at national discount pool supplies and it is a little cheaper there.
Either way - that's a great price!
Yeah, I get it at a local pool and spa (and billiards and patio furniture) store. They used to sell Saratoga spas, but no more. They sell AG pools.
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Before I drain, a few questions......
I let my water sit for a few days (after shocking), and just tested:
FC: 1
TC: 2.5
PH: below 7
Alk: 45
CYA: 125
Sounds like I need to drain?????
When I do drain, will the water with these chemicals hurt my grass? I assume I just attach the hose to my drain hole and out the screen door, and the rest will happen on it's own, yes? What do you recommend I do while it is empty? It seems perfectly clean, do I rinse with a hose, buy some fastgloss.....what do most people do? It has been 2 1/2 months. Should I buy a new frog?
Happy Valentines day!!!(Does this mean I can't have a Valentines soak before I drain?)
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Ivie, why do you need to drain? It looks like you just need to raise your ph and alkalinity. As far as the CC, did you ever determine if that's mps or not? Strange to have high CC readings after a shock unless you shocked with MPS. If you shocked with dichlor than you didnt' use enough. You should get more than 2 1/2 months out of your water. Mineral cartridges usually get replaced every 4 months with a refill. When I refilled I filled a bucket with water and added dichlor. I dipped a rag in it and wiped down the spa then rinsed it out. I applied fast gloss while my filters were soaking and then I refilled. I think it's best to bypass your grass when draining. If you can get a handle on the water that's already in your spa, it would be good experience for the future. I drained my spa the first time it got cloudy. The next time it happened I just fixed the water I already had. Since I ditched bleach, the problem has returned.
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The last time, it couldn't have been mps because I didn't use it UNTIL I saw the high CC reading. This time I shocked with MPS and only added a TBLS of dichlor. That was Sunday, today is Thursday, and I haven't added anything since! The water still looks great. I have a sinus infection, so I can't tell if it smells though.
I'd rather not drain if I don't have to, but how else do I get rid of the CC?
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You may be fighting chlorine lock. Although with water down to 97º chloine may linger longer than at 104º.
Even with 1 PPM chlorine you still are safe to use the tub, since you can't smell then don't worry about the CC reading. It probably does smell but again, if you can't smell it it ain't there! LOL!! I would use some baking soda to bring up the PH and alkalinity.
Test the chlorine after you soak and see if FC is lower. I think the CC should also be up a little after the soak. If water isn't that expensive in your area - drain and refill. The question of the lawn - I drain on the lawn and haven't seen any problems. I wouldn't drain on any edible plants or ones that produce fruit.
If you are really concerned about the water then I would add MPS to shock the tub and add a little amount of chlorine (2 teaspoons); this should give you manageable amounts of chlorine to measure in the tub. If you get over 5 PPM then you really don't know where the chlorine is.
What tinybubbles said is true about water but there is Chas' law which is drain the tub after 1 month if you are a newbie. And as I said I had the hardest time getting my tub to last more than 1 1/2 months when I first got the tub. Most newbies do too much stuff to their water until they get comfortable with testing and treating it.