Hot Tub Forum
Original => Hot Tub Forum => Topic started by: rrack on February 23, 2017, 06:22:36 pm
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We have about a 10 year old CalSpa tub that has a bunch of crazing or tiny spider cracks all over the top edges of the shell. I'm sure it's from sun damage due to it not being covered in quite a while. We now have a new cover and would like to tackle the ugly crazing or whatever it is. Is there a simply way to take care of it like polish and buffing? A clear gelcoat? Just wanted to research before I do something that I shouldn't.
Thanks in advance.
Robert
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p219/RRack/IMG_6453.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p219/RRack/IMG_6451.jpg)
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Anyone?
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As far as I know, crazing it not possible to repair. It's a cosmetic thing that you'll probably have to live with. The shell should still function fine though.
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That is my understanding as well. I've never heard of any way to deal with crazing. You just have to live with it.
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They only solution I know of is trading it in for a new unit, no more crazing! :-) no but for real there isn't anything you can do, If the tub has truly sat outside/uncovered I would at least fill it up and verify there isn't more repairs needed. Those diverters knobs look sun/chemical baked as well, I'd be shocked if they were still functioning at 100%
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Your title is repair, refinish, restore. I would say those options if possible would be cost prohibitive given the age of the tub. If the tub runs and heats and functions as it should and you want to keep using it as long as you can and you want to improve the looks at a reasonable modest cost. I wouldn’t rule out “cover up as an option”. I have never done this to a hot tub but I have worked on old tractors with fiberglass parts and cars with fiberglass body parts and both are subjected to a lot of abuse afterwards and they have held up. Seeing as how most of your damage is outside of the water you could paint the surface after prep with some of the more modern durable paints. Epoxy types I feel would be worth a try and not break the bank with an old tub. It would require sanding to provide a tooth and a lot of careful masking to keep the overspray out of the tub and off the outside. Low cost, fair amount of labor, no guarantees as to how well it will hold up, and a slightly different look when done. If it was mine I would try the filter lid or an area along the back side as a test.
Just an idea.
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A 10 year old Calspa.......If it's not hurting function leave it alone and enjoy your tub for as long as possible before disposal.
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A few years ago we redid one of our bathrooms in the house and did not want to spend a ton of money. We had an outside company come in scuff the shower/bathtub down and then sprayed some finish on it...i think it was aboit 200 bucks....might be an option thoigh not sure how it handle the chemicals.
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A few years ago we redid one of our bathrooms in the house and did not want to spend a ton of money. We had an outside company come in scuff the shower/bathtub down and then sprayed some finish on it...i think it was aboit 200 bucks....might be an option thoigh not sure how it handle the chemicals.
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I think the tub stuff would work and if you really want tough have the whole tub sprayed with Rhino Lining.
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Oops. Forgot about this thread. Thanks for the info. Those original pics looked really bad. I've since sprayed the diverters, knobs, waterfall and filter cover with silver spraypaint and coated the cabinet with Penatrol. Everything looks great now. Sans the crazing which is really only annoying to me in bright sunlight. She works flawlessly after replacing an $8 starter cap.
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Just FYI if anyone else needs the info... Wet sanding painful and slowly works... However, the heat gun works like magic! Just gotta be careful not to burn it. Just some new shaft seals and still goin strong.
https://calspas.com/downloads/technical_bulletin/2012/Troubleshooting%20Guide%20for%20Acrylic%20Crazing.pdf
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Anyone have any luck with the heat gun. I have noticed crazing on my 2016 coast tub, as was told $4000 to fix. 😢