Original > Hot Tub Forum
Chlorine Discrepancies
Sammi:
I recently returned from a 10 day vacation and my HS salt tub water was a bit cloudy. I forgot to turn the output down from 6 to 3 before I left, so was anticipating clear water. I tested with my test strips and the result was no chlorine residual. So I put in a out a quarter cup of chlorine granuales and tested the next day. Still no free chlorine reading.
I went to my dealer last night with a sample and they asked me if I had recently added chlorine. I told them a quarter cup on Monday night. Their reading showed I was at 15 for both free and total chlorine, and alkalinity was really high at about 230. I purchased brand new test strips and went home. Once again my tesr strips show no chlorine. My spa also doesn't smell like chlorine and my water is foaming and leaving a yellow residual. If my chlorine level is really that high shouldn't I have some color on my test strips? I currently have two different brands that are showing the same result.
When I called the dealer I got the same person who did my watwr test last night and he said I won't have a chlorine reading because it is a salt water tub. I don't buy that response at all because I've always had a chlorine reading on my test strips whether it be faint or strong. With a water test showing 15 my strip would definitely show dark color.
TemptingDestiny:
Have your water tested for phosphates.
Sammi:
--- Quote from: TemptingDestiny on January 07, 2021, 02:20:16 pm ---Have your water tested for phosphates.
--- End quote ---
It was - about 300 was the result which the dealer said is low. Most of their customers are in the 1500-2000 range.
castletonia:
Chlorine is chlorine. Doesn't matter if it is created by a salt system or if you are adding chlorine (dichlor, trichlor, cal hypo or sodium hypochlorite).
Someone's test is off, either the dealers or yours. If there is chlorine in your water, regardless of how it got there, your test strips will pick it up. Phosphates will interfere with chlorine production which could result in your salt system not producing enough chlorine quick enough. Can I assume that if your alkalinity is 230 then your pH is high as well? If so, the high pH will make any chlorine in the water much less effective.
In regards to the cloudy water and the salt system. How old is the water? Do you have ozone installed? Are you also using a silver ion cartridge? Which Hot Spring? Lots of variables here. If you have cloudy water that means that not enough chlorine is being produced quick enough. Whether this is a result of the salt system being set too low, the salt level not being ideal, bather load being too much or water chemistry throttling the system.
Sammi:
--- Quote from: castletonia on January 07, 2021, 03:43:29 pm ---Chlorine is chlorine. Doesn't matter if it is created by a salt system or if you are adding chlorine (dichlor, trichlor, cal hypo or sodium hypochlorite).
Someone's test is off, either the dealers or yours. If there is chlorine in your water, regardless of how it got there, your test strips will pick it up. Phosphates will interfere with chlorine production which could result in your salt system not producing enough chlorine quick enough. Can I assume that if your alkalinity is 230 then your pH is high as well? If so, the high pH will make any chlorine in the water much less effective.
In regards to the cloudy water and the salt system. How old is the water? Do you have ozone installed? Are you also using a silver ion cartridge? Which Hot Spring? Lots of variables here. If you have cloudy water that means that not enough chlorine is being produced quick enough. Whether this is a result of the salt system being set too low, the salt level not being ideal, bather load being too much or water chemistry throttling the system.
--- End quote ---
Yes ph is high at 8.4. Instructions are to add 2 tablespoons of ph decreaser twice a day for 4 days to bring the alkalinity down. Tub is 4 months old. Water is 4 months old. Ive topped it off 5 times since delivery. Envoy, salt system, and ozone system.
I'm with you castle - I think the dealers test is way off. With 2 different brands of test strips they should show chlorine color especially if thr dealers results were in the 15 range. I've always got a bit of color even when I'm between 0.5 - 3.0 range. You basically affirmed my main question - my strips should be showing chlorine color if th dealers test is accurate.
My dealer was out of the HS Freshwater branded test srrips for a while. I had good luck using them because the colors were easy to read. Last time I left in vacation I balanced the water and turned the output down to 3, came back to crystal clear water after 10 days. The other brand test strips (which were more expensive) are hard to read, colors bleed, etc. I balance my water daily and did so before this last trip I took. Only difference was I forgot to put my output down so all things being equal my water should have been clear again upon my return. Obviously something was out of whack when I left to come home to somewhat cloudy water which is also foamy and the foam is leaving yellow/brown stains.
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