Author Topic: Please HELP - 240V pumps not starting but have power... (Read 1969 times)

alderm · « **on:** March 30, 2020, 12:54:05 pm »

Hi All,

I am upgrading my HotTub with replacement Balboa Board BP501G1 and New Motors and Top Panel.
240V system, new GFI and tub powers up. (Setup 1- default)

I have power going to the motor wires and I see both 115V on Red and Black but the motors will not spin.
These are brand new pumps and are supposed to be compatible but now wonder.

Waterway Plastics 3721221-1D Executive 56 Frame 3 hp Spa Pump, 230 V (Single Speed)
4 HP Spa Pump - Vico Ultimax By UltraJet/Balboa Niagara Hot Tub Pump -230 VAC (2 Speed)

When I press the Jet 1 (2 Speed) it clicks for each speed and the pump doesn't start
When I press Jet 2 it clicks (gives power) but the motor doesn't start. (single speed)

I must have something set up wrong on the motor,
Can someone suggest what the wiring should be? I cannot post a photo so
Top to bottom I have
H (high). Red
C (constant) White
L (low) Black

Ground

order of wires on plug on board:
R
B
W
G

Hot Tub Forum · « **on:** March 30, 2020, 12:54:05 pm »

CanadianSpaTech · « **Reply #1 on:** March 30, 2020, 08:08:13 pm »

Where does the white wire J 50 go to White AC (Area 1) or Red AC (Area 3). White AC (Area 1) pins power any components in the spa that are 120 V. Red AC (Area 3) powers any components that require 240 V like your new pump. J 50 should go to J 34. See Below. You have to know the voltage of all the components in the spa. If it has Ozone you have to have the white wire going to the right power area (Area 1=120V Area 3=240V) depending if the ozone umit is 120 V rated or 240 V rated and so on with each component.

Look on the inside of the spa pack cover it will tell you all you need to know.

Please verify the pack is wired correctly. Let us know results

alderm · « **Reply #2 on:** March 30, 2020, 09:03:37 pm »

Hi, First of all thanks for answering! appreciated.

I can verify the Wiring and dip Switches are setups for 240v as per your note above, I compared the new board to the old before I put it in.
I will triple check tomorrow when its light but pretty sure.
I saw 115v on the Red and Black so figured it was 240v but definitely need professional help..
Cheers

CanadianSpaTech · « **Reply #3 on:** March 31, 2020, 10:35:27 am »

Pumps are compatible with the board.

Lets work with just the single speed pump. less wires to deal with at this time. Disconnect the plug from the board and test at the board first. White to black with pump not activated should not have voltage. turn pump on and test again and let us know if you have voltage. then plug it back in and do it again testing with your probes pressed into the backside of the plug off and on. If you have correct voltage there next we move to the backside of the pump. Disconnect the wires from the pump and test again off and on. If you have correct voltage there reconnect and test again. If you have the correct voltage to this point it should be working. If it is not it is somehow wired wrong or you have a bad pump but this is unlikely as you have 2 new pumps and both are not working. If you can post a photo of the white tags on the side of the pumps with the wiring diagrams and also photos of how you have it wired might be helpful. If you can also post a photo of the circuit board that might help.

alderm · « **Reply #4 on:** March 31, 2020, 01:59:14 pm »

Hey Thanks again.

OK so found the major issue - The Large S Fuse had blown (240V), I swapped it from my old board and it worked. (feel like an idiot) .
What was very strange was we were getting power from the board when I tested it and buddy also saw it. On the first startup, it must have blown. and the pump wasn't correctly wired...

Anyway now we have the pumps running and I'm getting a" heater may be dry message", the water is only 4 Celcius and I'm hoping the issue goes away on its own..? We are sure water is going through the chamber but maybe we will open it up and see if there is debris.

The pumps are starting and stopping frequently on their own trying to clear the dry message I think, worried it isn't good for the pumps.. will report back.

As I'm getting lake water to fill it the water is cold...so hoping heater will kick in.

Hottubguy · « **Reply #5 on:** March 31, 2020, 03:00:02 pm »

Quote from: alderm on March 31, 2020, 01:59:14 pm

Hey Thanks again.

OK so found the major issue - The Large S Fuse had blown (240V), I swapped it from my old board and it worked. (feel like an idiot) .
What was very strange was we were getting power from the board when I tested it and buddy also saw it. On the first startup, it must have blown. and the pump wasn't correctly wired...

Anyway now we have the pumps running and I'm getting a" heater may be dry message", the water is only 4 Celcius and I'm hoping the issue goes away on its own..? We are sure water is going through the chamber but maybe we will open it up and see if there is debris.

The pumps are starting and stopping frequently on their own trying to clear the dry message I think, worried it isn't good for the pumps.. will report back.

As I'm getting lake water to fill it the water is cold...so hoping heater will kick in.

You didn't plug the pumps in on the board backwards did you? This will cause this as well

CanadianSpaTech · « **Reply #6 on:** March 31, 2020, 03:18:40 pm »

Is the pump that runs for heating and filtering moving water?
Dry is a flow error.
Remove filters as well. Dirty filters = low flow rate. Remove them even if they look clean until you can get it to run properly.

alderm · « **Reply #7 on:** March 31, 2020, 04:58:53 pm »

OK Thanks to all your help - Yes It was actually because pump 1 should run on heat and we had it setup as pump 2 so It would stop pump 2 on heatup... Its working now - Thanks all for your help - really appreciated...

CanadianSpaTech · « **Reply #8 on:** March 31, 2020, 05:37:48 pm »

Great. RD loves a happy ending

Hot Tub Forum · « **Reply #8 on:** March 31, 2020, 05:37:48 pm »

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