Brand Specific Forums > Hot Spring Spas

2006 Vanguard, confused on heater replacement (4kw vs 6kw, & thermistor threads)

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castletonia:
As long as the thermistor goes in and you have the o-ring to make a tight seal, I would think it would be fine.  I've only been a Hot Spring dealer for a couple years so I'm not aware of all the changes over the years.  I wouldn't be surprised if the thermistors were changed a bit over time either to be more accurate, reliable, or for cost efficiency.

To my knowledge, the heater wires are not interchangeable, but I don't know that for fact. 

clh42:
Thanks again!  So which way are the heater wires supposed to go? I didn't get any instructions with the new heater.

clh42:
Ugh, well, now I've got a new problem.  Don't know if you can help me with this or not.

I got concerned about the tub freezing so I decided to reinstall the old heater and get it running again.  Not sure I mentioned, the old heater still heats.  The reason I'm replacing it is that it leaks.  But a leak is better than having it freeze.

So I got the old heater reinstalled last night, filled it, powered up, and it ran for a little over 2 hours.  Then I left the house for about 4 hours and when I came back the whole tub was dead.  No power at all.  (I had checked it RIGHT before I left the house and it was still working then, which was about 2 hours after I got the old heater reinstalled and the tub powered up.)

The breakers (neither the sub-panel nor my house main) had NOT tripped.

I verified that I have 240 for both circuits coming into the main connections on the heater board.

Looking at the heater board I do see a bit of charring on the "black" spade connector that connects to the main board.  There is a bit of charring on the back too, but it's just around that spade connector, nothing else looks fried.  I checked continuity and there is still continuity from the block terminal to that spade connector. and that wire to the main board has connectivity.

And I verified I have 240 on the white, black, and red wires that go from the heater board to the main board (120 between each of the black & white and red & white, and 240 between black and red.  So it would seem power IS getting to the main board.

And the main board looks okay, no charring anywhere on the main board, front or back.

I have pictures of all this stuff (including the original thermistor issue), but I can't figure out how to add pictures to posts here.  Or maybe this forum doesn't allow pictures?

castletonia:
On my display model hot tubs, black goes to H1 and white to H2.

I have no clue how to upload pictures, so I can't help there.  I'm not a service tech and without having one onsite, I can't guarantee this, but I'm guess the heater relay circuit board is bad, especially if there is evidence of charring or burn marks.

clh42:
Well, the power issue is resolved and the old heater is operational.  I found Backyardplus.com and their help desk ticket system.  They got me working.  Turned out it's my spa light.  That seems to have shorted out which kills the whole spa.  Simply unplugged both connections from the spa light from the main board and everything works again.  Awfully coincidental timing.  I can only guess that the freezing got to the light during the period I had it drained.

Luckily I can run the spa without the light.  I see it's pretty pricy and just not ready to spend that much on top of the heater right now.

So at least I've bought time to get the thermistor issue with the new heater figured out.

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