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Author Topic: Water quality issues- Switch from bromine to chlorine, or other problem?  (Read 705 times)

jamiho

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I've had a Marquis Destiny spa for about year.  I purchased it refurbished.  I made the choice to use bromine for sanitizer.

I have had consistent water quality issues which seem to be getting worse.  While the water looks clear when still, within a couple of weeks after a drain and refill, it starts looking really frothy and white when the jets are on.  I keep up on adjusting the chemical levels.  I usually shock 1-2 times a week and use an enzyme about as often.  I use a floating dispenser with bromine tablets instead of the inline system, and just use minerals in the inline system.  I usually have to add a little ph/alk up after I shock it.  I clean the filters at least once a month, soaking overnight.  I have never gone more than 3 months between draining/cleaning/refilling. 

I ran a system flush, drained and refilled this past weekend and added a new set of filters.  After that a friend and I used the tub just once. Today when I removed the filters to rinse them (as directed after using the calcium up when refilling) the filters have a spotty brownish stain on them, looks a little like rust.  What could this be?  Is it possible that switching to chlorine would solve my water quality issues in general?

I thank you for any advice you can provide!

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bud16415

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Re: Water quality issues- Switch from bromine to chlorine, or other problem?
« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2019, 10:47:38 am »
I just posted this to another thread. I will paste it to yours as well as the question is quite similar. Iím not a fan of bromine as well.

Your results with bromine sounded a lot like mine when I was using it for the first year we had our tub. I think the MPS releases the bromine that is attached to what it has killed in the water back into the bromine bank and it doesnít work instantly so overnight that happened and your dichlor was also converted to bromine thus the spike the next morning. When I was using bromine I also had a similar roller coaster ride with my levels. Adding that small amount of dichlor I wouldnít call shocking normally a chlorine shock is using a much higher dose.

I use the liquid bleach/dichlor method now and for me it is much simpler and lets me soak when the chlorine level is very low and then I add ether dichlor or liquid bleach (Clorox) after getting out. I start off with fresh water using dichlor and use it daily until the stabilizer hits 30-50PPM then I switch to bleach. The amount varies but for my 350 gallon tub a starting point is 1 TBS per day with normal usage or 1/3 cup of bleach. If the tub isnít used I will skip a day or add about half that. If we have company or heavy usage with swimsuits that may not be rinsed that good etc. I will add extra when we get out and test the next morning and maybe add more. It is a simple method but requires paying attention.   

jamiho

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Re: Water quality issues- Switch from bromine to chlorine, or other problem?
« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2019, 05:30:32 pm »
Thank you.  I'm a little confused about the switch from bromine to chlorine and the products needed.  I know I need to drain the tub and that there are chlorine granules, but little else.  Is there a good review of how to do it somewhere?

bud16415

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Re: Water quality issues- Switch from bromine to chlorine, or other problem?
« Reply #3 on: October 09, 2019, 08:26:33 am »
Thank you.  I'm a little confused about the switch from bromine to chlorine and the products needed.  I know I need to drain the tub and that there are chlorine granules, but little else.  Is there a good review of how to do it somewhere?


Iím sure reviews are out there many have switched. All I did was drain my tub and then as I always do blow in the jets with my shop vac/leaf blower getting all the water I can from the tub and pipes. I always then wipe the whole inside down with micro fiber cloth and vinegar to get off any gunk starting to attach.

Then I fill it replace the well rinsed filter and filled it up, powered it up, added a TBS or two of dichlor and waited for it to get hot.

It takes a few weeks for the stabilizer to get where I want it and then I switch to bleach. With adding water here and there the stabilizer will slowly go down then I switch back to dichlor for a few days.

After a couple months if the water looks clean and clear still but may have lost its sparkle and the levels are getting a little wonky and I donít feel it is ready for a water change or itís mid winter and I donít feel like doing it, I will do a partial change lowering the water about 1/3 and filling it back up. Switching back to dichlor again.

I try and add something once a day or every other day at the most and have been getting 4-6 months out of the water. Most of the time I could keep going longer but itís a good time to do it so I do.   

jamiho

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Re: Water quality issues- Switch from bromine to chlorine, or other problem?
« Reply #4 on: October 16, 2019, 06:34:00 pm »
Thanks so much.  Can you clarify what you mean by stabilizer versus dichlor?  Since I have been using bromine I'm just familiar with the bromine booster, the regular tablets, and then the non-chlorine shock.

bud16415

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Re: Water quality issues- Switch from bromine to chlorine, or other problem?
« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2019, 10:49:50 am »
Thanks so much.  Can you clarify what you mean by stabilizer versus dichlor?  Since I have been using bromine I'm just familiar with the bromine booster, the regular tablets, and then the non-chlorine shock.


Dichlor has stabilizer in it commonly called CYA (cyanuric acid) it is in there because dichlor is mostly used in outdoor uncovered pools subjected to sunlight. Sunlight breaks chlorine down fast and CYA slows the action. In a uncovered pool the CYA needs replaced as you add more chlorine so they combine the two in dichlor. Hot tubs are covered most of the time so the CYA/stabilizer builds in the water. A little is good a lot is bad. About 30-50PPM is good as it lets the chlorine act slower over a longer time.

I use dichlor until I hit 50PPM and then I switch to liquid household bleach Clorox or the cheaper Walmart brand. It is chlorine without the CYA. You cant seem to be able to buy a granular chlorine without the CYA added or I would switch to that. I use the Clorox until I see the CYA drop to 30PPM then I switch back to dichlor for a week or so. It drops because you splash water out and add fresh here and there plus some just goes away.

Keeping that level just right IMO helps the tub remain stable thus why they call it stabilizer.   ;)

Here is a link you can search and read more about this method.

https://blog.orendatech.com/five-things-cyanuric-acid

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Re: Water quality issues- Switch from bromine to chlorine, or other problem?
« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2019, 10:49:50 am »

 

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