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Coast Spa tub not working

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Spot9:
Thanks!!  I just tested the resistence and it is reading 15ohms. I believe it should read between 9-14ohms. 15ohms should be acceptable?

bud16415:
That I don't know. It depends on how sensitive your GFCI is and how accurate your meter is etc. You could do the math and get an idea how much current would pass. In another thread not to long ago we talked about using a megger tester set to 500v to test the insulation breakdown on a heater. If you do some google searches on heaters and megger and insulation you will find a couple vids on how to test with a megger. 

Spot9:
Thanks Bud16415. So I was about to take the board off to see if I had a bad solder on the back and found a bit of water on one of the heater terminals. I dried it off and the breaker didn't trip. So, looks like water is somehow coming up through the heater,

bud16415:

--- Quote from: Spot9 on June 16, 2019, 10:46:04 am ---Thanks Bud16415. So I was about to take the board off to see if I had a bad solder on the back and found a bit of water on one of the heater terminals. I dried it off and the breaker didn't trip. So, looks like water is somehow coming up through the heater,

--- End quote ---

Sounds like you solved the problem. Before I bought our tub I wanted to know how hard it would be to do my own repairs and also how safe it would be sitting in 400 gallons of water with 240v heating the water. I watched a bunch of vids on heaters and one showed this weeping condition you are seeing. He then eliminated the GFCI and let a normal fault happen and it is a good reminder why we all want a working GFCI, and why we should test them once a month.

If that’s the original heater I would say 19 years is a good life span.  :)

Spot9:
No, I have replace the heater at least twice and the pump twice since I took over the tub. I moved here in 2012 and the tub was bought in 2000. I put in a titanium heater this time because I am using a salt chlorinator

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