Original > Hot Tub Forum
SunPurity Mineral Purifier
brian_tr:
Should the metal balls in the SunPurity get smaller over time? I left mine in the tub for 6 months and did not notice them shrink any. That is one of the reasons I did not think it was getting enough flow throw the bromine container. I am currently trying just using Dichloro and MPS.
Lori:
Ok, I'm not entirely sure, but I think the little bb looking things in the cartridges (I haven't used SunPurity but have used Freshwater III ag+ cartridge) are only coated with the minerals. As the water rushes passed, it dissolves (?) the minerals into the water. Once the minerals are gone, they leave a plain looking bb.
Just my observation!!! ::) Forgive me for the technical terminology!! (J/T) LOL!!!
Electro:
brian_tr,
Please check out the site of the manufacturer (Zodiac) at http://www.nature2.com/spas.asp
According to one answer in their FAQ, there is nothing that affects the ion distribution flow rate that uses up the cartridge in 4 months. This means that water flow around the device does not affect how fast it is used up. I suspect that is not entirely true, but is likely an adequate model, as long as the device is in water that is not completely stagnant.
Lori, thanks for your input. I think you're right.
To see the utility of the Nature2 or SunPurity or other similar products, such as FreshWater Ag+ and Rain Forest Blue, a homeowner without an extensive testing lab can baseline the use of chemicals (without the ions), then install the ion product and carefully reduce the amount of chemicals to see the effects. I noted that 2 spa experts (Northman and Vermonter) have indicated that 2-3 ppm of free chlorine for 2 hours are necessary to kill all microorganisms in a spa. The Zodiac manufacturer states on their site that only 0.5 ppm of free chlorine is necessary when using their product in conjunction with the lower level of chlorine.
Electro
tony:
The reason for raising the free chlorine level to 2-3 ppm is because it is impossible to maintain a .5 ppm level with dichlor in a spa. The 2-3ppm level gives an effective kill rate and then the levels will drop to zero and can stay at zero for some time using the N2 or frog cartridge. I have left my spa for over two weeks with just a normal shock and came back to perfectly clear water. It also makes it a simple system to use.
With a pool you can maintain the .5 ppm with the use of a chlorinator. In a spa, you should only use dichlor or lithium because of their near neutral pH and quick dissolving character, so there is no way to continually add chlorine. One thing for sure, it certainly works and has helped many people who have converted from other methods of sanitation that had problems.
tony
Electro:
tony,
I have posted and communicated with Northman on another board and he says the same thing. Basically that it is necessary to use chlorine for the heavy duty work of disinfection; then you may rely on an ozonator and/or N2 to keep the water disinfected while no one goes into the tub, even for many days.
So, in practice it is not realistic to maintain the 0.5 ppm chlorine residual continuously as Zodiac indicates is necessary in a hot tub.
Does that sound right?
Electro
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