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Jacuzzi Pressure Switch Part # needed...

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ndabunka:
Guys & Gals,
As some of you may know from the other (older) thread, I am in the process of replacing the flow switch in my 2003 Jacuzzi J-370.  I am trying to find the right part # and there is a tag that was on the line to the switch itself but (of course) a portion of that part # is obscured so I can only make out some of it.

MODEL Q-12??10 (The second ? could be an S, a 3 or an 8) and here is what it looks like (Yes, I eventually broke off the wires after removing it about 5 times).


I suspect that this may be the correct one since SunDance and Jacuzzi are the same company.
http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Flow-Switch-Sundance-860-seriesBarbed--P9127C190.aspx?UserID=62406770&SessionID=VM6uadwgdekv9dQFLpmX

However, I'd prefer to simply replace the switch itself rather than the entire housing as I can do the plug/switch quickly with only a little water loss by replacing ONLY the switch itself.  If I have to replace the entire clear container, it will be a longer (and colder) job and may even require that I drain a lot of water before I could perform it.  Of course, I could probably simply pull the part out of the entire unit but I am hopeful that the switch itself might be cheaper than the switch " the (un-needed) clear housing (Maybe $25 buck instead of $50+shipping?)

The one here appears to be similar but you may have noticed that mine does NOT have the additional piece on the bottom of the stem so I suspect that the flow rating for this one may not work.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E0DW4G/ref=asc_df_B001E0DW4G1383013/?tag=becomcom00462-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B001E0DW4G&linkCode=asn

Thanks in advance

RobertB:
I am not sure if you can get just the switch. (I'll check monday)
I imagine the cost savings of only getting the switch will be very little. 
If not you can just use some vice grip pliers(just use a rag to keep the teeth from damaging the tubing) on both sides of the unit and replace the entire thing with very little water loss. I imagine the cost savings of only getting the switch will be very little.

Good Luck
RobertB

ndabunka:
Thanks.  I've discovered that I can now once again run the tub with the wires left as an open circuit and it's heated up about 5 degrees in the past hour (from 52 to 57).  I am hopeful that is from the heater running but it may simply be from the pump motors.  I no longer get a FLO2 error but do now see a FLO error due to the open circuit.

RobertB:
Your heater should not be turning on with the open circuit. So I suspect the heating is from the motors. The Flo switch is a safety feature to keep the heater from coming on unless there is enough water flow by the heater to keep it from over heating. That is it's sole purpose.

If the heater came on while the water was not moving it would overheat rapidly and could cause the pvc pipe around the heater to melt and could crack the element as well.(although the hi limit sensor is supposed to keep that from happening). I have seen this happen.

I will let you know monday about the switch.

RobertB
 

ndabunka:
RobertB,
Of course you are correct.  I did confirm that although the HEAT symbol was showing up in the LED display, it was not running as the heat this morning remained @ 66 degrees.  So I have shut down the power again until I can get the correct part. 
Thanks for your help

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